2023.12 - Ben Island Kayak
Xander & Leanne kayak to a favourite discovery from a year ago, Ben Island, in search of adventure and a natural infinity pool!
This post is part of my epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania, also featuring Leanne and cameos from numerous other adventurers.
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Recreating the Moment
Leanne and I first visited Ben Island one year prior. We were camping nearby and had seen that it was only one kilometre offshore, a perfect mini adventure.
As we explored the island we were delighted to discover a picturesque rock pool/ infinity pool with low slabs on one side and cliffs on the other.
On this occasion we had only planned for a short paddle, so we had left our snorkels behind and only brought a few muesli bars. As a result we had to keep the outing short and didn’t get a chance to snorkel in the rock pool or scope out the depth for cliff jumping.
We resolved to return one day with snorkels and a packed lunch to spend the whole day lounging in the sun and playing in the rock pool. We’ve been daydreaming about it ever since.
Alexander Bay
We started the day with the short drive down to Alexander Bay (great name), enjoyed breakfast in the picnic area then drove onto the beach.
Esperance’s beaches are famous for their squeaky, firmly packed sand. In the photo above notice how our tyres are still fully inflated and how shallow the tyre tracks still are.
Setting Out
Erica was kind enough to wait with the car and read a book, so Leanne and I were soon underway by ourselves.
Ben Island dominates the horizon above, with a sliver of the mainland visible on the right.
Treacherous Waters
It might not look it in the photo above, but once you enter the channel between Ben Island and the mainland the current and swell are both quite strong. This is one of the reasons that I would advise a lot of caution if you are considering this adventure.
We overcame the challenge by angling into the swell, paddling past the landing point then turning 90 degrees and coasting into the shelter of the island.
There is no easy landing here, you’ve got to jump out between rocks while each wave tries to throw the kayak forward and then pull it out to sea.
Exit Strategy
One of our biggest worries on adventures like this is becoming marooned, so we are always sure to drag the kayak well above the highest point we think waves will come to.
With the boat secured we loaded up for our island adventure, setting off in the direction of the rock pool.
Balancing Rock
We followed the granite slabs clockwise around the island and half way there passed one of our favourite rock features.
In addition to being interesting to look this huge boulder provides some of the only shelter from wind and sun on the island.
The Stone Table
As we continued around the Eastern face of the island we began to more fully appreciate the conditions of the sea below. We passed the stone table, thankfully free of any allegorical lions, and made the final descent.
Rock Pool
We arrived at the rock pool, but could tell there was a lot more water moving in and out than our previous visit.
As tempting as it was to swim anyway after how far we had come to get here, we knew the right call was to back out. The photo below is not even the biggest wave we saw in the pool.
Abandoned Plans
As we made our way back to the kayak the grey clouds mirrored our mood.
Return Journey
On the return journey we allowed the current to push us into the bay, angling the front of the kayak 45 degrees from the flow until we passed the headland. The paddle in was smooth and we breathed a sigh of relief to be back on the mainland.
Silver Lining
We would have loved a day of sunbathing and nature play on Ben Island but wrapping things up before midday meant we were able to cover a good amount of ground. We finished the day back on the main Nullarbor route, even after accounting for an hour of backtracking we had time to set up camp and light a fire in the light.
Reflections
This is a prime example of wanting something to work, and doing it anyway, when it’s just not the right time for it.
Ben Island was off-route, the weather was overcast and the tide/swell was too high, plus we weren’t spending time with Erica. In hindsight we should have looked at the forecast more closely and planned a beginner friendly adventure to do with Erica.
I hope to do this trip properly one day, but I think it’ll need to be when I have enough time to pick a perfect day. Which just means I’m going to have to have an extended stay in Esperance one day… how tough...
In the mean time, I’ll write about our first visit when I’m more caught up on the main story.
Trail Tip
Expanding on the above, it’s clear that this adventure is not one that will succeed without careful planning. For the objective to be worthwhile, and the journey to be safe conditions need to be favourable.
Look for low tide and clear skies, do not attempt if you are not experienced paddling on the ocean.
Links
https://www.visitesperance.com/alexander-bay-campsite
Next post 2023.01.29
Regular post are back! I'm committing to a new blog every Monday, and I won’t entertain bonus posts until I have a good buffer in place!
Join the trio as we cross the Nullarbor Plain, all the way to Melrose, South Australia!
