Now camped beyond the end of our 2022 expedition, with the pivotal rounding of Cape Peron ahead of us, we began the day by answering the call to adventure.

Our first stop came early at Bottle Beach, where the increasingly vivid colours towards Cape Peron reached their most intense red of the trip.

Cape Peron

As we approached Cape Peron, the shallows gave way to deep blue water against the red cliffs, bringing some apprehension about the strong currents we might encounter around the point.

A pod of dolphins briefly distracted us from the task ahead, drawing us further offshore before we turned back towards the cape. We kept our distance as we rounded the break off the point, where the meeting currents created a strange sensation beneath the kayak. In the end, the pivotal rounding of Cape Peron proved surprisingly uneventful, and we soon had the kayak secured on the beach.

Skipjack Point

Leanne and I left our kayak at Cape Peron to walk the Wanamalu Trail, a 3.6-kilometre return walk to the lookout at Skipjack Point.

At the lookout, we were treated to our first eagle rays of the trip and paused to watch them line feeding below.

We returned via the beach, finding more wildlife in the shallows.

Megafauna

First we glided over two enormous shovelnose rays, too quickly to properly take them in. Then three eagle rays appeared alongside the kayak.

When we reached the next stretch of shallows, animals were everywhere, so I left the kayak again to capture them properly.

Back in the kayak, we continued south, passing another eagle ray in the deeper water as we made our way into Herald Bight.

Continuing north along the Peron Peninsula, Leanne and I were approaching the point where our 2022 expedition had come to an end.

The morning was spent traversing a vibrant cliffline, we stopped halfway to stretch our legs and admire more sharks.

Back on the water, the shallows eventually forced us out of the kayak, leaving us to push it along the final stretch of cliffline.

Beyond the Cliffs

We took a wide berth around the sandy point where we’d sprung a leak four years earlier. As we moved into deeper water, the wildlife changed, bringing back the enormous stingrays we’d seen crossing Big Lagoon. This time, I got in the water for a closer look.

The sandy coastline ahead was broken into a series of shallow bays, so rather than follow every curve, we took a direct line across deeper water. The shortcut would also help keep us on track for Gregories, where we hoped to snorkel a near-shore reef before it got too late in the day.

We came ashore near Cattle Well for lunch, where a turtle appeared in the shallows, but by the time we grabbed the camera and snorkel, it had disappeared.

Gregories

We arrived at Gregories in the mid-afternoon, now decisively beyond the point of our 2022 evacuation and with plenty of warmth and sunshine left to enjoy the snorkel.

We returned to the kayak for the final stretch towards Bottle Bay Campground, passing through the deepest water of the expedition so far and spotting our first dolphins along the way.

Our first morning camped along the Peron Peninsula began early, packing away our little home and preparing the kayak for another day on the water.

An Unfortunate Encounter

At our first stop, Leanne accidentally stepped on something soft in the shallows, which responded by releasing a cloud of purple ink.

Neither of us knew what it was at the time, but the unfortunate victim turned out to be a sea hare.

Big Lagoon

Continuing along the coast brought us back to the mouth of Big Lagoon. We’d explored the lagoon during our 2022 expedition, so this time we stopped to wander through the mangroves around its entrance before continuing along the peninsula.

A favourable breeze gave us the chance to put up the sail, carrying us across the mouth of Big Lagoon and several kilometres further up the coast.

We sailed directly over two enormous stingrays, but weren’t quick enough to get photos.

Wildlife Everywhere

When it was time for a rest, we cruised back to shore and found ourselves once again surrounded by shovelnose rays and sharks.

I even found some more stingrays to photograph.

The Journey Continues

After plenty of time with the wildlife, we climbed back into the kayak and continued along the coast until we found a quiet beach to call home for the night.

Four years after our Denham to Monkey Mia kayak expedition ended prematurely at South Gregories, Leanne and I returned to complete and extend the route even further into Shark Bay Marine Park.

Beginning once again from the Denham boat ramp, we retraced our previous route north along the Peron Peninsula.

Loaded with nearly two weeks of supplies, the kayak made for slow going, and it wasn’t long before we needed a break.

Wildlife Encounters

Later in the afternoon, we paddled into a sheltered bay to look for wildlife. Before we’d even reached the beach, shovelnose rays appeared alongside the kayak!

As we wandered further into the bay, they filled the shallows.

And then came the sharks.

We eventually returned to the kayak and continued north, looking for somewhere to spend our first night.

Camp Life

Once we’d chosen a campsite, we settled into familiar routines, beginning with bringing the kayak above the high-water line.

Followed by a swim.

Dinner

And a show.

For our 2022 annual warm-climate winter adventure, Leanne and I planned a multi-day kayak expedition from Denham to Monkey Mia along the coastline of François Peron National Park.

We'd heard about the route through the kayaking community and knew that at least one tour operator ran expeditions along the same coast, so it seemed like a natural next step from our inaugural island-hopping adventure in Dampier two years earlier.

We’d taken three weeks off, giving us enough time for a second expedition in Dampier afterwards. Leanne was so excited to return that she wasn’t initially convinced Shark Bay was worth cutting into our time there.

Day 1 - Leaving Denham

Setting out from the Denham boat ramp, our fully loaded kayak moved slowly, albeit with a more ergonomic setup than the jerry cans strapped on top we'd made do with on our previous expedition.

By lunchtime we'd covered enough distance to put the Denham townsite out of view, greatly improving the atmosphere of the adventure.

In the late afternoon we started seeing reef sharks in the shallows, then spotted two chairs on the beach where we could sit and watch, making it the perfect spot for our first campsite.

After a quick rinse, we settled in, unpacking the kayak, setting up camp and making dinner with the sharks and sunset as constant companions.

By this point, any doubts Leanne had about sacrificing a few days in Dampier were long gone.

Day 2 - Big Lagoon

On the morning of Day 2, we packed up camp and continued up the coastline, with the sharks still hunting in the shallows.

We were in good spirits and soon stopped for morning tea in the sun, enjoying a swim and a bit of beachcombing before continuing on.

After morning tea we made our way into Big Lagoon, a sprawling network of ancient claypans now connected by the sea, extending tens of kilometres into the Peron Peninsula, and pulled up at the Big Lagoon Campground boat ramp.

A fresh picnic lunch overlooking the lagoon, at the most developed site within the national park, was a luxurious step up from some of our Dampier meals.

After lunch we headed deeper into the lagoon, loosely following the Big Lagoon Paddle Trail. The weather was amazing, but the scenery proved repetitive.

Leanne gave up first and took a rest, while I jumped in for a swim and pulled the kayak for a while.

When we'd agreed we'd seen enough, we backtracked to the ocean and started looking for a place to camp.

We finished the day with enough time for a snorkel among the oyster stacks and corals.

Day 3 - Beneath the Cliffs

Our third day's paddle was dominated by orange cliffs of Peron Sandstone, with only a narrow strip of beach beneath them. In the sunlight, reflections from the red cliffs speckled the turquoise water with orange, creating one of the most striking sights of the trip.

Their scale was deceptive; what looked like them tapering away in the distance was actually the coastline getting further away from us.

Paddling point to point sometimes took us kilometres from shore, with the water still only chest deep. Sharks, shovelnose rays and stingrays were regular companions, including one ray longer than our kayak!

We took our Day 3 lunch in a break between the cliffs, this time with the beach entirely to ourselves.

By the time the cliffs finally gave way to more open coastline, it was late in the day and we were exhausted from the long paddle.

Shipwrecked!

Setting out from afternoon tea, the kayak felt particularly sluggish. As it got worse, we realised it wasn't just our exhaustion and made a beeline for shore to investigate.

We quickly decided to set up camp, unloading the kayak so Leanne could get camp established while I investigated the leak.

I used the paddle as a spade, digging carefully to avoid breaking it, and built up two sand supports to elevate the empty kayak.

Next, I used our largest drybag to scoop up seawater and fill the kayak to find the leak.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, a silicone repair from my original refurbishment had failed. I stripped away the old material and prepared the area for a fresh repair.

I then used Selleys Aqua Repair to bog up the hole, which had worked well on several smaller holes during the original refurbishment.

After this, it was time to settle in for another magical evening of sunset shark watching, this time with the sky and ocean blending seamlessly together.

Day 4 - Evacuation

The next morning we were treated to one of Shark Bay's more remarkable wildlife encounters, watching bottlenose dolphins beach hunt, a rare foraging technique where they chase fish through the shallows and onto the beach.

We charted a course for South Gregories Campground, confident we could find the help we needed there. We offloaded our excess drinking water before setting out, but only one kilometre later we were sinking again.

For my second go at the repair, I dried off the kayak and generously patched the damaged section with duct tape. It worked perfectly, showing no signs of weakening for the rest of the day and making us wish we hadn't already committed to the evacuation.

When we arrived at South Gregories, Leanne secured a campsite and settled in with her book while I hitchhiked my way back to Denham. There were some uncertain moments waiting and walking in the sun, but as soon as I was reunited with our car, all my problems evaporated.

On my way back to Leanne, I realised an extra 15 minutes to pick up some upgraded camp food wouldn't make a difference, and an hour later we were settled in for another evening of much more luxurious camp craft.

Day 5 - Sightseeing

Adapting to our changed circumstances, we booked a second night at South Gregories and spent the day exploring up to Skipjack Point and the reddest cliffs of the trip.

Day 6 - Departure

On our final morning, we stopped in at Herald Bight before leaving the national park.

Lunch and lookouts were complemented by a visit to the Ocean Park Aquarium, where we learned more about the wildlife we'd encountered over the previous week, as well as everything we'd missed.

Leanne also did her best to fit in with the stonefish.

Restricted by one injury and building fitness to try to prevent another, Leanne and I spent our mid-winter adventures searching for wildflowers on foot.

My hand injury was still keeping me off the bike, while a longer walk to on the Bibbulmun Track was fast approaching. With my previous walking injuries still in mind, I was gradually increasing my distances in preparation.

Jabitj Trail - Wellington NP

The Jabitj, or Running Water Trail, is a six-kilometre one-way trail joining the Wellington Dam precinct to Honeymoon Pool, and arguably the most scenic route through Wellington National Park.

We approached the Jabitj Trail from the Honeymoon Pool trailhead, setting out in the late afternoon.

Most of the trail has been resurfaced recently, but unfortunately its alignment still runs over steep hills.

The trail lives up to its name, with the river as a constant companion, lush mossy valleys and plenty of wildlife.

Marri Trail - Crooked Brook Forest

The Marri Trail is a 10-kilometre circuit through the jarrah and marri forest of Crooked Brook, climbing to several lookouts with views across the Ferguson Valley and towards Bunbury.

In spring, the forest floor becomes a kaleidoscopic carpet of flowers, some of which were already in bloom.

The trail is a pleasant mix of fire road and singletrack, with gentle climbs and short descents in the recommended direction.

We followed this walk with an outstanding lunch at PARK Donnybrook.

Maidens Reserve

The following weekend, we returned to Maidens Reserve, making up a new route as we went.

We followed the Coastal Trail south, pausing frequently to photograph the wildflowers.

From the intersection, we continued south into the tuart forest.

On the return, we were treated to views of nesting pink and grey galahs.

We finished with a drink at Mindalong Beach, watching rainclouds roll over the colourful landscape behind us. We’d finished just in time.

More on Maidens Reserve:

In the winter of 2021, high water and fresh trails drew us to Murray Valley for a weekend of adventure.

This trip came at the height of our camping gear expansion, with a 4x4, swag, 6m gazebo split into an enclosed living room and undercover shade/drying space, plus car-powered lights and other gadgets.

We’ve since gone back the other way. A 6-man dome tent and a couple of USB battery packs now do everything we need, are more durable and much easier to transport. We’ve even downsized the car.

We set the whole lot up at Chuditch Campground, our base for the weekend. The fact we'd brought our sleeping bags inside the gazebo for movie night was a clue that the swag was becoming redundant.

Paddling the Upper Murray

For our first adventure, we layered up as much as we could and put the kayaks in at Yarragil Campground.

Leanne was excited to test out her whitewater muscle memory.

The Upper Murray had plenty to offer, regularly serving up small rapids like Stringers below.

Or my favourite, Island Pool, where we stopped for bucket lunch.

Leanne even made it through Baden Powell.

Shuttle Rides

The Murray Valley mountain bike trails had only opened the previous spring, and although we’d already visited a couple of times, they’d quickly dried out over summer. By this point, winter rain had brought the moisture back, and then some.

High Ropes

Another great addition to Lane Poole Reserve is the Trees Adventure high ropes park. We especially enjoyed the self-lowering systems, which got faster as you moved up through the difficulty levels.

After three very different adventures, we wrapped up the weekend with lunch in the sunshine, although Leanne still wore every warm layer she could find just to be safe.

When Jonno was three weeks into his Bibbulmun Track End-to-End, I intercepted him in Walpole with his next food resupply and plans to steal him from the trail for a day. After Blackwood Hut and Pemberton, this would be our third adventure along the way.

After one lap to the bottom of the hill, we headed for our accommodation, only to stumble into the best wildlife encounter of Jonno’s 780 km journey so far.

We stayed at The Yurt, a two-storey forest hideaway complete with a wood fire, spa bath and dome skylight for watching the night sky.

That evening, while Jonno rested his legs, I put his mind to work with a gruelling gauntlet of board games.

The next morning we explored the Valley of the Giants. I extended a lap of Wonderland out to Sappers Bridge, while Jonno took in the Tree Top Walk.

I was pleasantly surprised to find Wonderland had now been extended right up to the purpose-built Munda Biddi realignment I helped build, instead of sending riders along Outer Break Road like it did on our previous visits.

The extension is mostly climbing, but the trail builders had clearly had some fun putting it together.

I continued onto the Munda Biddi Trail, pausing at one of the distinctive rest areas that have since become a feature of the Giants Trails network. This was the first one, built at my direction. The DBCA project manager loved it, so we kept building them, getting a little more elaborate each time, and the other trail contractor soon started building their own versions too.

I continued down the hill to Sappers Bridge and my pickup, where Jonno and I recreated a photo from a few years earlier.

After some lunch, we got up close with a mossy rock slab, observing tiny frogs, orchids and lizard traps tucked into the miniature landscape.

In the afternoon I shuttled Gatekeepers and the Munda Biddi; past the Pleated Lady and Ride Through Tree, down to South Coast Highway, but some surprisingly strong sunlight had set in by then, so we soon traded the trails for Peaceful Bay.

After another evening at the yurt and a few more shuttle runs, we finished the weekend where we started, back at the hilltop lookout. I headed home while Jonno continued on towards Albany.

Epilogue

A week after we parted ways, Jonno completed his End-to-End. I supported his journey one last time by removing a tick at his celebration dinner.

Pemberton isn't somewhere we need much convincing to visit. Only a few days after I joined Jonno for a night on the trail, Leanne and I packed our bikes and headed down to Pemberton to meet him again.

On Saturday morning we joined the Pemberton Cycling Association's weekly social ride and enjoyed another session in the Arboretum trails, followed by morning tea. Still recovering from the Blackwood hike, ocusing on mountain biking set me up for a shorter hike with Jonno that afternoon.

Pump Hill Cottages

After the ride, we dropped by our accommodation to pick up my lunch and found a few distractions.

Gloucester Tree to Cascades - Bibbulmun Track

I met Jonno at the edge of town for the scenic walk into Gloucester Tree. The 1km bitumen path makes a worthwhile extension to the hike to Cascades.

We climbed the newly reopened tree, impressed by the quality of the rebuild.

From there we descended towards East Brook, passing more enormous karri.

In the valley, lichen and moss took over.

Fallen trees were another regular feature, affecting the trail in different ways.

Thankfully, the shorter hike was proving manageable for my injuries.

Just before Cascades, Leanne surprised us by appearing on the trail early.

Together we continued the short distance to Cascades.

Sunday

Jonno had agreed to shuttle us for Sunday's ride, but first we had some animals to say goodbye to.

Only to be surprised by more of them at the trailhead.

We took Jonno to Hidden River for one last treat before returning him to the Track.

We'll catch up with him again when he reaches Walpole.

Thirteen years ago, while preparing for my End-to-End of the Bibbulmun Track, a close friend told me about his favourite hut: Blackwood. He described waking to mist filling the valley below like an ocean, and it became one of the places I was most looking forward to seeing for myself. Unfortunately, by the time I reached that section of the Track, a diversion meant I bypassed Blackwood altogether.

Thirteen years later, after injuries had pushed hiking increasingly out of my life, it was still the only hut on the Track I’d never visited. With Jonno now completing his own End-to-End, and me helping him plan the journey, I had a reason to risk another flare-up, join him for an overnight and see what I’d missed.

I met Jonno in Balingup on day 14 of his End-to-End. We spent the night in a chalet, then despite the forecast, passed up an early start the next morning in favour of breakfast at Mr Foster's Café before leaving town.

As we left the café, there were already a few signs it was going to be a good day for ducks.

The Track left Balingup along an old railway alignment before reaching an excessively well-marked road crossing.

We passed through Golden Valley Tree Park, pausing for a few photos amongst the old trees as the rain began to pick up.

Beyond the Tree Park, we climbed through the jarrah forest.

Our morning tea at a lookout was brief, with little shelter from the wind and rain.

The Track alternated between fire trails and singletrack, with early wildflowers already crowding some sections of the trail.

After lunch, the Track emerged into farmland, where we conversed with the cows and Jonno got distracted by a stream.

Climbing from the farmland into a plantation, my old injuries were really catching up with me; I was relieved when we caught our first glimpse of the valley below Blackwood Hut.

A downpour greeted us at Blackwood Hut, so we settled in with coffee and the cake I'd carried 18km uphill from Balingup.

The rain cleared as the sun began to set, so we walked to the top of the hill to take in the view.

Along the way, we made another friend.

The Next Morning

When we woke, it was immediately clear the trip had paid off, with mist already visible from the hut. Over the next hour it settled further into the valley, strengthening the ocean-like effect.

Every part of the morning routine looked spectacular in the morning light.

Leaving camp, we immediately passed another kangaroo before descending the infamous Cardiac Hill, which proved refreshingly easy travelling north to south.

At the base of the hill, we followed the Track along the Blackwood River through more farmland.

In no time at all, we arrived at Southampton Bridge and my waiting car. After a quick resupply, Jonno continued south towards Pemberton while I headed home to recover before joining him again a few days later.

Jonno is currently making his way down the Bibbulmun Track on an End-to-End. In the coming weeks I'll be joining him for a few sections. Before I share those, here's a look back at a similar trip from ten years ago.

Having completed my own End-to-End three years earlier, I was already pretty familiar with the Track. Helena was an easy choice for an overnight with Jonno: a 12km walk in, great views with barely any signs of civilisation, and one of the nicer huts in the area.

This trip came at a time when Jonno was adjusting to life as a shift worker. We decided to leave time behind for the night, leaving our watches in the car, phones switched off and only a small digital camera to document the trip. For the next two days, we'd let daylight, hunger and tiredness set the schedule.

The walk in was a pleasant wander through the winter Jarrah forest, with plenty of stops to take in the views. I particularly enjoyed watching the shadows of the clouds move across the uninterrupted forest of the Helena Valley.

Helena Campsite

When I passed Helena Hut on my End-to-End, it was the first day I'd felt fit enough to double-hut, so I'd been disappointed not to stay, especially after spending the previous night at Ball Creek Campsite, the worst hut on the whole Track!

This time there was no reason to push on. With no watches, no phones and nowhere else to be, we settled in to enjoy Helena for the afternoon, gathering an excessive amount of dead wood for a big fire that evening.

With such a big fire we had to wait for it to settle down before we could cook dinner.

Given the indulgent nature of the trip, I'd carried in fresh steaks and some garlic butter potatoes, which I'd pre-prepared and wrapped in foil to cook directly on the coals.

We spent the rest of the evening around the fire, sharing some port and plenty of laughs.

The Walk Out

The following morning we rekindled the fire enough to cook breakfast before ensuring it was properly extinguished. We left behind a substantial pile of firewood for future visitors, somewhat atoning for our reckless behaviour the day before.

Back on the trail, we decided to vary the return journey with some off-track hiking. I studied the maps and picked out a suitable ridgeline to follow.

We were rewarded with sweeping views from a rocky outcrop.

We rejoined the Bibbulmun Track before reaching some thick Parrot Bush and returned to the car without incident.

When helping Jonno plan his End-to-End itinerary, I made sure to steer him towards a night at Helena rather than nearby Ball Creek. He was glad I did, and impressed by the substantial new shelter that now occupies the campsite. I’ll be joining him for sections around Balingup, Pemberton and Walpole in the coming weeks.

In the summer of 2023/2024 Leanne and I were making our way from Western Australia to Tasmania. Following a tip from a tourist brochure we left the Great Ocean Road at halfway and headed for the town of Forest in the Otways in pursuit of platypuses and mountain bike trails.

The rainforest scenery was incredible, and the landscape had plenty of elevation, but these were some of the worst-built mountain bike trails I have ever ridden. I was even more disappointed when I researched the project and found that the Victorian Government had invested $2.1 million to revitalise the network and boost tourism in the area. Contrasted with the Pemberton Arboretum Trails, it was a stark reminder of how much the quality of a trail network depends on its design and construction.

After our disappointing experience on the mountain bike trails, we turned our attention to the other reason we’d come to Forest: platypus viewing. We’d found a guided tour drifting in canoes on Lake Elizabeth at sunset, but decided to wheel our own kayak the 1km to the lake and do it ourselves, applying the portage skills we’d developed in Coral Bay.

The trail started off gentle, and I chuckled to myself about the absurdity of wheeling a kayak over a creek.

This didn’t last long, with the trail soon climbing through tight switchbacks requiring multi-point turns, and even some stairs!

As we gained elevation, we were rewarded with misty views down the valley.

Platypus anticipation was building.

We arrived at the jetty and launched straight away, using the remaining light to appreciate the scenery.

Lake Elizabeth is home to six platypuses, and we had frequent sightings as they surfaced from their dives, but each was brief and difficult to photograph.

After a while, the tour group joined us on the lake, and we drifted around separately, giving each other plenty of room.

Eventually, the sightings grew less frequent as the light faded, so we headed back in.

Retracing our steps down the trail, we found one more surprise: glow worms scattered across the earth banks where the trail had been cut into the hillside, glowing like tiny constellations in the understory.

The glow is produced by the larvae of fungus gnats, which use their bioluminescence to attract prey towards sticky threads hanging from their shelters. Seeing them glowing along the trail was a genuinely magical experience, although, like the platypuses, they proved almost impossible to photograph.

The winter of 2020 marked the peak of COVID-19 restrictions in Western Australia. By keeping the state’s borders closed, we enjoyed a much greater sense of normality than much of the rest of the country. When regional travel reopened, adventure tourism was given the green light, triggering a wave of intrastate travel and sending us back to work.

Before returning to work, we wanted to continue our tradition of escaping to a warmer climate each winter. With interstate travel off the table, our favourite Mid-West destinations were completely overrun. Instead, we got creative and used a professional connection to secure accommodation in Karratha.

This trip was always about exploring the islands of the Dampier Archipelago, but sea kayaking wasn't part of the original plan. We first tried posting in local community groups, hoping to pay someone for a lift out to the islands.

While we waited to see if anyone would respond, we decided to see what we could discover for ourselves. Starting from the Dampier Foreshore, we planned a sea kayaking day trip to Sam's Island.

Sam’s Island Day Trip

Sam’s Island, originally Tidepole Island, is located only 400m from the Dampier Foreshore making it a perfect destination for us to dip our toes into the archipelago.

The crossing was short, and from the island the rest of the archipelago suddenly felt far more accessible than it had from shore. What had seemed remote on a map now looked well within reach.

After exploring Sam’s Castle, it was time to head back. The short crossing had only fuelled our appetite to explore deeper into the archipelago.

That evening, over dinner at the yacht club, we stopped waiting for someone else to take us into the archipelago. Instead, we pored over maps, piecing together a route that linked the places we most wanted to visit with the shortest crossings between islands.

Day 1 - Burrup Peninsula

Setting out from Withnell Bay, we were excited but nervous, unsure how we’d handle a heavily laden kayak in such an unfamiliar environment. We cautiously hugged the shoreline, only crossing to the far side of the bay once we felt comfortable with the kayak’s weight and handling.

Our confidence gradually grew as we continued up the peninsula, weaving through the rocks and enjoying close encounters with the local birdlife.

Along the way we took breaks on sunny beaches, albeit in very different ways.

By the afternoon of Day 1 we reached our first real crossing, leaving the Burrup Peninsula for Dolphin Island. Out of an abundance of caution, we’d chosen the narrowest point possible, just 300 metres from one beach to the next.

The crossing passed without incident. In fact, by that evening the tide had dropped so far I could simply walk back to the mainland.

As we settled in for dinner, we discovered our fuel canister wasn't compatible with our stove. Fortunately, we realised we could prepare our meals with cold instant mashed potato instead of rice, persevering with unconventional dinners.

Day 2 - Angel Island

Conditions were favourable when we awoke on day 2, encouraging us to make the 2km crossing over to Angel Island, one of the highlights from our pre-trip research.

Completing the most daunting part of the day first shifted our mindset, and we began to slow down and enjoy the place, cruising from beach to beach finding new ways to have fun.

We collected shells, explored rock pools, and snorkelled.

As we made our way around the South East corner of the island we were shocked to discover an active shipwreck!

This gave us a real laugh as we had seen the mast from before the last headland and were baffled by its proximity to the island. Fortunately the crew were aboard sipping tea under a gazebo, with two other boats nearby, so we were confident they had the situation under control.

We finished the days paddle on the North-West corner of Angel Island by a small surf break we’d seen online, with Gidley Island only metres away.

As the sun set we once again watched the tide retreat.

Day 3 - Gidley Island

On the 3rd day we decided to follow the channel between Angel and Gidley Islands to the east. By this point we had developed an eye for spotting the ancient petroglyphs spread throughout the islands.

The petroglyphs of Dampier are generally thought to date from the Holocene period, with many carvings depicting marine life and coastal scenes—unlikely to have been created earlier when the coastline lay much further away.

When we arrived back in the Flying Foam Passage (between Angel & Dolphin Islands) we found the waters choppy from a strong easterly wind. Consequently we sought shelter in the next available channel.

We paused for lunch and a swim back on the west coast then continued north along a long beach section.

The day’s end was decided for us when we reached another narrow channel, this one turbo-charged by the outgoing tide, making it impossible to paddle against. Instead we spent the remainder of the afternoon running up the shore and floating back with the current.

Day 4 - Wildlife Encounters

On the fourth day it was time to start heading back towards the mainland, but it was also the day we dialled in our eyes for the local wildlife. First we found the source of the tiny tracks we had been seeing on all of the beaches: hundreds of hermit crabs scuttling about.

Our priority was to head east, back to the Flying Foam Passage and cross to Dolphin Island, but we hadn’t anticipated the low tide lingering into the morning. The turbo-charged channel from the previous afternoon was now a shallow rock pool teeming with life. We stuck to our plan, walking the kayak through the shallow pools and discovering the best ‘snorkelling’ of the trip without ever putting on a mask.

The channel was filled with donut-shaped discs of coral, their tops worn smooth from exposure to the elements while the edges remained intact just below the surface. Amongst them we found clams and anemones, adding even more life to the shallow pools.

In between the coral, small predators darted about. We spotted reef sharks, stingrays, shovelnose rays and even an octopus!

After a while the channel opened out into a wider sandbar and we dragged the kayak forward. Although it was much lighter than at the start of the trip, I still ended up with rope burn (we now bring a shoulder strap).

When we finally arrived at Collier Rocks, we were excited to see the Flying Foam Passage was still glassy. Not wanting to waste the opportunity, we crossed straight away, although we would later realise we had picked the widest point of the passage — a 5km crossing!

After a good break we began the journey south along Dolphin Island, passing beaches and mangroves along the way. This ended up being our best day for turtles and petroglyphs, with both turning up constantly along the way. When we reached the crossing back to the mainland, we didn’t bother diverting for a narrower route. After our most adventurous day yet, we settled on a beach only a few kilometres from the boat ramp.

Day 5 - The End

We finished the expedition with a short paddle back to the boat ramp. Over a few days we’d gone from tentative crossings to taking on whatever was in front of us. It became one of our most memorable adventures, introduced us to a new favourite way to explore.

More Kayaking Adventures:

In the heart of Kalbarri National Park are Nature’s Window and The Loop walking trail. Over the years they have seen a lot of investment making them some of the most accessible icons of the Murchison River Gorge.

This striking landscape has a way of calling us back every few years, whether for a day trip like this one or my multi-day adventures into the untracked regions of the canyon.

Our winter 2026 visit came the day after a 10 day kayaking expedition in Shark Bay. Injuries, a restaurant dinner and a night in a real bed didn’t exactly motivate us to an early start, but the idea of driving home without making the most of our location encouraged us to get out and do the walk anyway.

Before the walk had even begun we were both struck by the rugged beauty of the river cutting through the landscape and exposing millions of years of sedimentary rock.

The trail starts high, on an exposed ridgeline. We took our time enjoying the vibrant wildflowers and interesting rock formations.

After a while the trail descended into the gorge, the scrub giving way to occasional eucalypts as we entered the riparian zone.

At this point the warning signs become more frequent, reminding visitors to avoid heat exhaustion. By contrast, we found a dip in the river combined with the wind tunnel effect of the gorge acted like an evaporative air conditioner.

Immediately after the descent the trail narrows to its most technical point, we navigated along exposed rock ledges further into the gorge.

I especially enjoyed the gum trees growing straight out of the rocks!

The second half of the walk is spent on the sandy riverbank, we paused regularly to admire more stunning rock formations.

Shortly after passing a rapid we began seeing and hearing more people and new the end, and ice cream at the Skywalk Cafe, was getting close.

We paused for a victory photo back at Nature’s Window before returning to the comfort of our car, satisfied with another day enjoying this iconic location.

But not all of Kalbarri’s best views are found on the trail.

In May 2022, Leanne and I celebrated our wedding anniversary with a weekend in the Porongurup region of WA.

Most of the weekend was spent sheltering from severe weather in our cosy accommodation, so when we finally set out for Castle Rock we parked as far away from potentially hazardous trees as possible.

Filled with energy, I immediately started playing on the big Karri logs.

Which made me thirsty…

Once the climb began, I was struck by the meticulous stonework that dominated the trail.

The damp conditions rewarded us with lots of beautiful fungi.

We paused for a photo at the Karri Lookout.

From there we covered the more technical scramble & ladder climb to the summit.

Where we found the “big moment” was blocked by another peak…

Undeterred we took in the views before beginning the descent.

On the way back down I especially enjoyed the lichen.

As well as the changing views.

Even without the sunset shot we hoped for it was a beautiful walk that rewarded us for seizing the moment!

The Bald Head Walk is one of WA’s most iconic bushwalking trails and not for the faint of heart! Climbing and descending along the exposed granite spine of the Flinders Peninsula, the track rewards hikers with panoramic views across the Southern Ocean.

Already in the area for a wedding at nearby Frenchmans Bay, Leanne and I arrived a day early for another adventure.

Unlike the short walks and lookouts Torndirrup National Park is best known for, the Bald Head Walk commits to the exposed ridgeline almost immediately.

In 2018, the short boardwalks quickly gave way to a more rugged walking track.

Following the ridgeline, the trail offered little protection from the elements, but every climb revealed another spectacular view.

Beyond the sandy sections, the trail became rockier and considerably windier.

By the time Bald Head came into view, we were already exhausted.

A sheltered grove of coastal banksias gave us a brief reprieve from the elements before the final push.

Beyond the grove, one final climb brought us to Bald Head.

The walk back was a little slower, with plenty of opportunities to stop and rest.

I even found what looked like the perfect granite armchair.

The reverse angle was... unexpected.

In early 2026 the Arboretum Trails opened, diversifying an already fantastic network and elevating Pemberton to Western Australia's leading Trail Town for flow and skill progression.

I was privileged to be involved in the initial community consultation process with the PCA and the trails were ultimately built by my former employer, Magic Dirt.

Leanne and I were lucky enough to get a sneak peek of the Arboretum Trails in December, but my hand injury had kept me away ever since.

In the time I had been off the bike, Jonno’s riding had progressed considerably. I knew these trails would be perfect for building his confidence and taking his skills to the next level.

This proved true, and Jonno kept up with us throughout the first day, only passing on Barney, one of the more advanced trails in the network.

After a full day of riding, we settled into the Pemberton Caravan Park, chosen for its hot showers and easy access to town.

On the second morning the rain arrived, so we waited it out with a drive along the Heartbreak Trail, stopping at the Bicentennial Tree where Jonno climbed to the first platform.

When the rain eased, we returned to the Pemberton Pool and the original mountain bike park. After a session on the purpose-built jump lines helping Jonno refine his technique, we began the steep climb up Bandit's Rise.

A later addition to the network, this trail provides a direct return from two of the downhill trails back to the trailhead, while also offering views across the mist-covered valley below.

After two big climbs, we had worked up an appetite big enough to eat a horse, so we detoured to Hidden River for lunch.

By the time we were done there, we were done riding up hills so we switched to shuttles. Jonno loved riding Cool Runnings, while Leanne achieved the second-fastest women's time on Bloody Mary.

Thrilled with the day's achievements, we returned to the Pemberton Pool for a winter solstice swim.

By the final day it was clear my hand wasn’t quite as recovered as I’d hoped. I returned to Barney with a much more confident Jonno before switching to shuttle driving for the remainder of the visit.

On our way out of town we spotted volunteers installing a new entry statement at the pool. It's this sort of local effort that keeps Pemberton's trail network evolving and gives us more reasons to come back.

Waking to a smoky haze in Collie, Leanne and I headed for the coast in search of clearer skies and a new adventure.

A quick search led us to Maidens Reserve on Bunbury’s southern coastline, where we traded smoke and haze for fresh air, coastal views and towering tuart trees.

We were immediately impressed by the quality of the trail and the surprising scale of the reserve, which felt far removed from the surrounding suburbia.

On our first visit we stuck to the official trails, but after enjoying the coastal scenery and realising just how much of the reserve remained unexplored, we knew we had to come back.

Return Visit

The next time we were in Bunbury, we returned to Maidens Reserve to upgrade our leisurely first visit into a proper loop hike through the reserve’s extended trail network.

This time we parked at Mindalong Beach and followed the Coastal Trail until reaching the turn-off for the lookouts and playground, where we continued south instead.

To our delight, the quality of the trail did not diminish, with the crushed limestone surface and gentle gradients continuing along the same alignment for kilometres, providing access throughout the network.

Having reached the southern end of the reserve, we crossed inland to the Tuart Walk.

The most developed trail in the broader network, the Tuart Walk links Usher and Dalyellup via a sealed shared-use path through tuart and peppermint woodland.

From here we navigated towards the Maidens Reserve Playground, encountering some steep hills along the way.

If we were planning a future visit, we'd probably spend less time along the eastern boundary. The trails here were among the steepest in the reserve and often ran close to the backs of nearby houses. With so many excellent paths elsewhere in the network, there are better ways to build a loop.

Eventually we rejoined the familiar official trail network near the Maidens Reserve Playground and welcomed the well-built steps up to the lookout.

Halfway up the climb, we paused for a photo amongst the treetops.

At the top, the sun emerged from behind the clouds, casting patches of light across the reserve and ocean beyond.

With the views enjoyed, we began making our way back through the reserve, once again appreciating the gentle gradients and well-built trails.

We closed our loop with a gentle stroll back along the Coastal Trail, taking in one final set of ocean views.

In May 2024, after repairing our equipment in Perth, Leanne and I headed south to Peaceful Bay. With my return to trail building in the Valley of the Giants approaching, we took the opportunity to revisit some favourite places along the South Coast.

Peaceful Bay

We arrived at Peaceful Bay Caravan Park with plenty of time to set up camp. Just a short walk from the beach, the park features lush grassy campsites shaded by peppermint trees, along with a modern shower block and cosy camp kitchen.

With camp established, we wandered down to the beach for sunset. We were surprised and thrilled to discover a controlled burn taking place across the water, adding smoke and fire to an already picturesque evening.

Exploring the Surrounds

The extended summer continued throughout our stay encouraging us to explore the local area by four wheel drive and kayak.

Leanne completed an assignment outside in the sun, and celebrated finishing her uni semester with a top tier milkshake at The Marron Tale.

Conspicuous Cliff

We ended the month of May with a visit to Conspicuous Cliff, a stunning location nearby that never disappoints.

We climbed to the highest lookout to watch the sunset and Leanne quickly spotted some migrating humpback whales.

Hyped up on whale excitement she ran back down the stairs for zoomies on the beach.

Which made her quite thirsty.

Home Again

Between the spectacular sunsets, warm weather and migrating whales, Peaceful Bay was the perfect welcome back to the South West.

The first week of winter was spent excitedly watching the Saturday forecast for the Margaret River region. When the low winds held, I upgraded our planned river paddle to an ocean adventure.

Leanne and I packed everything Friday afternoon, and Jonno arrived Friday night, preparing us for an early start to our Saturday adventure.

The original plan was a return paddle from Canal Rocks to Yallingup, however big swell and bad vibes encouraged us to reconsider.

Decision made, we quickly reset the equipment, then headed to a cafe to reset our spirits.

After a hearty brunch at La Lah there was still plenty of good weather left in the day, so we headed over to the sheltered side of the cape and put in at Eagle Bay.

Setting out, the water was calm and crystal clear. Although we once again had to contend with swell around the rocky headland into Bunker Bay, we were rewarded with a close encounter with the local dolphins.

Leaving the dolphins behind, we paddled north towards Shelly Cove and Point Merchant, giving the growing swell and breaking waves plenty of room.

The closer we got to the lighthouse, the rougher the conditions became.

We decided to snap a few pictures and retreat to safer waters.

To our delight, the dolphin pod was still there on the return journey, providing a welcome boost as we settled in for the paddle home.

Before long, we were back in Eagle Bay with the boat ramp in sight.

Back at the beach, we were pleased to find it was still only early afternoon, so we took some time to enjoy the view across the bay before cooling off with a swim.

Eventually our appetites got the better of us, so we made the short trip up the hill to Eagle Bay Brewery for a bite to eat.

We finished the day relaxing in the sun, enjoying a bite to eat and gazing out towards the lighthouse, this time with plenty of land between us.