When Jonno was three weeks into his Bibbulmun Track End-to-End, I intercepted him in Walpole with his next food resupply and plans to steal him from the trail for a day. After Blackwood Hut and Pemberton, this would be our third adventure along the way.

After one lap to the bottom of the hill, we headed for our accommodation, only to stumble into the best wildlife encounter of Jonno’s 780 km journey so far.

We stayed at The Yurt, a two-storey forest hideaway complete with a wood fire, spa bath and dome skylight for watching the night sky.

That evening, while Jonno rested his legs, I put his mind to work with a gruelling gauntlet of board games.

The next morning we explored the Valley of the Giants. I extended a lap of Wonderland out to Sappers Bridge, while Jonno took in the Tree Top Walk.

I was pleasantly surprised to find Wonderland had now been extended right up to the purpose-built Munda Biddi realignment I helped build, instead of sending riders along Outer Break Road like it did on our previous visits.

The extension is mostly climbing, but the trail builders had clearly had some fun putting it together.

I continued onto the Munda Biddi Trail, pausing at one of the distinctive rest areas that have since become a feature of the Giants Trails network. This was the first one, built at my direction. The DBCA project manager loved it, so we kept building them, getting a little more elaborate each time, and the other trail contractor soon started building their own versions too.

I continued down the hill to Sappers Bridge and my pickup, where Jonno and I recreated a photo from a few years earlier.

After some lunch, we got up close with a mossy rock slab, observing tiny frogs, orchids and lizard traps tucked into the miniature landscape.

In the afternoon I shuttled Gatekeepers and the Munda Biddi; past the Pleated Lady and Ride Through Tree, down to South Coast Highway, but some surprisingly strong sunlight had set in by then, so we soon traded the trails for Peaceful Bay.

After another evening at the yurt and a few more shuttle runs, we finished the weekend where we started, back at the hilltop lookout. I headed home while Jonno continued on towards Albany.

Epilogue

A week after we parted ways, Jonno completed his End-to-End. I supported his journey one last time by removing a tick at his celebration dinner.

Pemberton isn't somewhere we need much convincing to visit. Only a few days after I joined Jonno for a night on the trail, Leanne and I packed our bikes and headed down to Pemberton to meet him again.

On Saturday morning we joined the Pemberton Cycling Association's weekly social ride and enjoyed another session in the Arboretum trails, followed by morning tea. Still recovering from the Blackwood hike, ocusing on mountain biking set me up for a shorter hike with Jonno that afternoon.

Pump Hill Cottages

After the ride, we dropped by our accommodation to pick up my lunch and found a few distractions.

Gloucester Tree to Cascades - Bibbulmun Track

I met Jonno at the edge of town for the scenic walk into Gloucester Tree. The 1km bitumen path makes a worthwhile extension to the hike to Cascades.

We climbed the newly reopened tree, impressed by the quality of the rebuild.

From there we descended towards East Brook, passing more enormous karri.

In the valley, lichen and moss took over.

Fallen trees were another regular feature, affecting the trail in different ways.

Thankfully, the shorter hike was proving manageable for my injuries.

Just before Cascades, Leanne surprised us by appearing on the trail early.

Together we continued the short distance to Cascades.

Sunday

Jonno had agreed to shuttle us for Sunday's ride, but first we had some animals to say goodbye to.

Only to be surprised by more of them at the trailhead.

We took Jonno to Hidden River for one last treat before returning him to the Track.

We'll catch up with him again when he reaches Walpole.

Thirteen years ago, while preparing for my End-to-End of the Bibbulmun Track, a close friend told me about his favourite hut: Blackwood. He described waking to mist filling the valley below like an ocean, and it became one of the places I was most looking forward to seeing for myself. Unfortunately, by the time I reached that section of the Track, a diversion meant I bypassed Blackwood altogether.

Thirteen years later, after injuries had pushed hiking increasingly out of my life, it was still the only hut on the Track I’d never visited. With Jonno now completing his own End-to-End, and me helping him plan the journey, I had a reason to risk another flare-up, join him for an overnight and see what I’d missed.

I met Jonno in Balingup on day 14 of his End-to-End. We spent the night in a chalet, then despite the forecast, passed up an early start the next morning in favour of breakfast at Mr Foster's Café before leaving town.

As we left the café, there were already a few signs it was going to be a good day for ducks.

The Track left Balingup along an old railway alignment before reaching an excessively well-marked road crossing.

We passed through Golden Valley Tree Park, pausing for a few photos amongst the old trees as the rain began to pick up.

Beyond the Tree Park, we climbed through the jarrah forest.

Our morning tea at a lookout was brief, with little shelter from the wind and rain.

The Track alternated between fire trails and singletrack, with early wildflowers already crowding some sections of the trail.

After lunch, the Track emerged into farmland, where we conversed with the cows and Jonno got distracted by a stream.

Climbing from the farmland into a plantation, my old injuries were really catching up with me; I was relieved when we caught our first glimpse of the valley below Blackwood Hut.

A downpour greeted us at Blackwood Hut, so we settled in with coffee and the cake I'd carried 18km uphill from Balingup.

The rain cleared as the sun began to set, so we walked to the top of the hill to take in the view.

Along the way, we made another friend.

The Next Morning

When we woke, it was immediately clear the trip had paid off, with mist already visible from the hut. Over the next hour it settled further into the valley, strengthening the ocean-like effect.

Every part of the morning routine looked spectacular in the morning light.

Leaving camp, we immediately passed another kangaroo before descending the infamous Cardiac Hill, which proved refreshingly easy travelling north to south.

At the base of the hill, we followed the Track along the Blackwood River through more farmland.

In no time at all, we arrived at Southampton Bridge and my waiting car. After a quick resupply, Jonno continued south towards Pemberton while I headed home to recover before joining him again a few days later.

Jonno is currently making his way down the Bibbulmun Track on an End-to-End. In the coming weeks I'll be joining him for a few sections. Before I share those, here's a look back at a similar trip from ten years ago.

Having completed my own End-to-End three years earlier, I was already pretty familiar with the Track. Helena was an easy choice for an overnight with Jonno: a 12km walk in, great views with barely any signs of civilisation, and one of the nicer huts in the area.

This trip came at a time when Jonno was adjusting to life as a shift worker. We decided to leave time behind for the night, leaving our watches in the car, phones switched off and only a small digital camera to document the trip. For the next two days, we'd let daylight, hunger and tiredness set the schedule.

The walk in was a pleasant wander through the winter Jarrah forest, with plenty of stops to take in the views. I particularly enjoyed watching the shadows of the clouds move across the uninterrupted forest of the Helena Valley.

Helena Campsite

When I passed Helena Hut on my End-to-End, it was the first day I'd felt fit enough to double-hut, so I'd been disappointed not to stay, especially after spending the previous night at Ball Creek Campsite, the worst hut on the whole Track!

This time there was no reason to push on. With no watches, no phones and nowhere else to be, we settled in to enjoy Helena for the afternoon, gathering an excessive amount of dead wood for a big fire that evening.

With such a big fire we had to wait for it to settle down before we could cook dinner.

Given the indulgent nature of the trip, I'd carried in fresh steaks and some garlic butter potatoes, which I'd pre-prepared and wrapped in foil to cook directly on the coals.

We spent the rest of the evening around the fire, sharing some port and plenty of laughs.

The Walk Out

The following morning we rekindled the fire enough to cook breakfast before ensuring it was properly extinguished. We left behind a substantial pile of firewood for future visitors, somewhat atoning for our reckless behaviour the day before.

Back on the trail, we decided to vary the return journey with some off-track hiking. I studied the maps and picked out a suitable ridgeline to follow.

We were rewarded with sweeping views from a rocky outcrop.

We rejoined the Bibbulmun Track before reaching some thick Parrot Bush and returned to the car without incident.

When helping Jonno plan his End-to-End itinerary, I made sure to steer him towards a night at Helena rather than nearby Ball Creek. He was glad I did, and impressed by the substantial new shelter that now occupies the campsite. I’ll be joining him for sections around Balingup, Pemberton and Walpole in the coming weeks.

In the summer of 2023/2024 Leanne and I were making our way from Western Australia to Tasmania. Following a tip from a tourist brochure we left the Great Ocean Road at halfway and headed for the town of Forest in the Otways in pursuit of platypuses and mountain bike trails.

The rainforest scenery was incredible, and the landscape had plenty of elevation, but these were some of the worst-built mountain bike trails I have ever ridden. I was even more disappointed when I researched the project and found that the Victorian Government had invested $2.1 million to revitalise the network and boost tourism in the area. Contrasted with the Pemberton Arboretum Trails, it was a stark reminder of how much the quality of a trail network depends on its design and construction.

After our disappointing experience on the mountain bike trails, we turned our attention to the other reason we’d come to Forest: platypus viewing. We’d found a guided tour drifting in canoes on Lake Elizabeth at sunset, but decided to wheel our own kayak the 1km to the lake and do it ourselves, applying the portage skills we’d developed in Coral Bay.

The trail started off gentle, and I chuckled to myself about the absurdity of wheeling a kayak over a creek.

This didn’t last long, with the trail soon climbing through tight switchbacks requiring multi-point turns, and even some stairs!

As we gained elevation, we were rewarded with misty views down the valley.

Platypus anticipation was building.

We arrived at the jetty and launched straight away, using the remaining light to appreciate the scenery.

Lake Elizabeth is home to six platypuses, and we had frequent sightings as they surfaced from their dives, but each was brief and difficult to photograph.

After a while, the tour group joined us on the lake, and we drifted around separately, giving each other plenty of room.

Eventually, the sightings grew less frequent as the light faded, so we headed back in.

Retracing our steps down the trail, we found one more surprise: glow worms scattered across the earth banks where the trail had been cut into the hillside, glowing like tiny constellations in the understory.

The glow is produced by the larvae of fungus gnats, which use their bioluminescence to attract prey towards sticky threads hanging from their shelters. Seeing them glowing along the trail was a genuinely magical experience, although, like the platypuses, they proved almost impossible to photograph.

The winter of 2020 marked the peak of COVID-19 restrictions in Western Australia. By keeping the state’s borders closed, we enjoyed a much greater sense of normality than much of the rest of the country. When regional travel reopened, adventure tourism was given the green light, triggering a wave of intrastate travel and sending us back to work.

Before returning to work, we wanted to continue our tradition of escaping to a warmer climate each winter. With interstate travel off the table, our favourite Mid-West destinations were completely overrun. Instead, we got creative and used a professional connection to secure accommodation in Karratha.

This trip was always about exploring the islands of the Dampier Archipelago, but sea kayaking wasn't part of the original plan. We first tried posting in local community groups, hoping to pay someone for a lift out to the islands.

While we waited to see if anyone would respond, we decided to see what we could discover for ourselves. Starting from the Dampier Foreshore, we planned a sea kayaking day trip to Sam's Island.

Sam’s Island Day Trip

Sam’s Island, originally Tidepole Island, is located only 400m from the Dampier Foreshore making it a perfect destination for us to dip our toes into the archipelago.

The crossing was short, and from the island the rest of the archipelago suddenly felt far more accessible than it had from shore. What had seemed remote on a map now looked well within reach.

After exploring Sam’s Castle, it was time to head back. The short crossing had only fuelled our appetite to explore deeper into the archipelago.

That evening, over dinner at the yacht club, we stopped waiting for someone else to take us into the archipelago. Instead, we pored over maps, piecing together a route that linked the places we most wanted to visit with the shortest crossings between islands.

Day 1 - Burrup Peninsula

Setting out from Withnell Bay, we were excited but nervous, unsure how we’d handle a heavily laden kayak in such an unfamiliar environment. We cautiously hugged the shoreline, only crossing to the far side of the bay once we felt comfortable with the kayak’s weight and handling.

Our confidence gradually grew as we continued up the peninsula, weaving through the rocks and enjoying close encounters with the local birdlife.

Along the way we took breaks on sunny beaches, albeit in very different ways.

By the afternoon of Day 1 we reached our first real crossing, leaving the Burrup Peninsula for Dolphin Island. Out of an abundance of caution, we’d chosen the narrowest point possible, just 300 metres from one beach to the next.

The crossing passed without incident. In fact, by that evening the tide had dropped so far I could simply walk back to the mainland.

As we settled in for dinner, we discovered our fuel canister wasn't compatible with our stove. Fortunately, we realised we could prepare our meals with cold instant mashed potato instead of rice, persevering with unconventional dinners.

Day 2 - Angel Island

Conditions were favourable when we awoke on day 2, encouraging us to make the 2km crossing over to Angel Island, one of the highlights from our pre-trip research.

Completing the most daunting part of the day first shifted our mindset, and we began to slow down and enjoy the place, cruising from beach to beach finding new ways to have fun.

We collected shells, explored rock pools, and snorkelled.

As we made our way around the South East corner of the island we were shocked to discover an active shipwreck!

This gave us a real laugh as we had seen the mast from before the last headland and were baffled by its proximity to the island. Fortunately the crew were aboard sipping tea under a gazebo, with two other boats nearby, so we were confident they had the situation under control.

We finished the days paddle on the North-West corner of Angel Island by a small surf break we’d seen online, with Gidley Island only metres away.

As the sun set we once again watched the tide retreat.

Day 3 - Gidley Island

On the 3rd day we decided to follow the channel between Angel and Gidley Islands to the east. By this point we had developed an eye for spotting the ancient petroglyphs spread throughout the islands.

The petroglyphs of Dampier are generally thought to date from the Holocene period, with many carvings depicting marine life and coastal scenes—unlikely to have been created earlier when the coastline lay much further away.

When we arrived back in the Flying Foam Passage (between Angel & Dolphin Islands) we found the waters choppy from a strong easterly wind. Consequently we sought shelter in the next available channel.

We paused for lunch and a swim back on the west coast then continued north along a long beach section.

The day’s end was decided for us when we reached another narrow channel, this one turbo-charged by the outgoing tide, making it impossible to paddle against. Instead we spent the remainder of the afternoon running up the shore and floating back with the current.

Day 4 - Wildlife Encounters

On the fourth day it was time to start heading back towards the mainland, but it was also the day we dialled in our eyes for the local wildlife. First we found the source of the tiny tracks we had been seeing on all of the beaches: hundreds of hermit crabs scuttling about.

Our priority was to head east, back to the Flying Foam Passage and cross to Dolphin Island, but we hadn’t anticipated the low tide lingering into the morning. The turbo-charged channel from the previous afternoon was now a shallow rock pool teeming with life. We stuck to our plan, walking the kayak through the shallow pools and discovering the best ‘snorkelling’ of the trip without ever putting on a mask.

The channel was filled with donut-shaped discs of coral, their tops worn smooth from exposure to the elements while the edges remained intact just below the surface. Amongst them we found clams and anemones, adding even more life to the shallow pools.

In between the coral, small predators darted about. We spotted reef sharks, stingrays, shovelnose rays and even an octopus!

After a while the channel opened out into a wider sandbar and we dragged the kayak forward. Although it was much lighter than at the start of the trip, I still ended up with rope burn (we now bring a shoulder strap).

When we finally arrived at Collier Rocks, we were excited to see the Flying Foam Passage was still glassy. Not wanting to waste the opportunity, we crossed straight away, although we would later realise we had picked the widest point of the passage — a 5km crossing!

After a good break we began the journey south along Dolphin Island, passing beaches and mangroves along the way. This ended up being our best day for turtles and petroglyphs, with both turning up constantly along the way. When we reached the crossing back to the mainland, we didn’t bother diverting for a narrower route. After our most adventurous day yet, we settled on a beach only a few kilometres from the boat ramp.

Day 5 - The End

We finished the expedition with a short paddle back to the boat ramp. Over a few days we’d gone from tentative crossings to taking on whatever was in front of us. It became one of our most memorable adventures, introduced us to a new favourite way to explore.

More Kayaking Adventures:

In the heart of Kalbarri National Park are Nature’s Window and The Loop walking trail. Over the years they have seen a lot of investment making them some of the most accessible icons of the Murchison River Gorge.

This striking landscape has a way of calling us back every few years, whether for a day trip like this one or my multi-day adventures into the untracked regions of the canyon.

Our winter 2026 visit came the day after a 10 day kayaking expedition in Shark Bay. Injuries, a restaurant dinner and a night in a real bed didn’t exactly motivate us to an early start, but the idea of driving home without making the most of our location encouraged us to get out and do the walk anyway.

Before the walk had even begun we were both struck by the rugged beauty of the river cutting through the landscape and exposing millions of years of sedimentary rock.

The trail starts high, on an exposed ridgeline. We took our time enjoying the vibrant wildflowers and interesting rock formations.

After a while the trail descended into the gorge, the scrub giving way to occasional eucalypts as we entered the riparian zone.

At this point the warning signs become more frequent, reminding visitors to avoid heat exhaustion. By contrast, we found a dip in the river combined with the wind tunnel effect of the gorge acted like an evaporative air conditioner.

Immediately after the descent the trail narrows to its most technical point, we navigated along exposed rock ledges further into the gorge.

I especially enjoyed the gum trees growing straight out of the rocks!

The second half of the walk is spent on the sandy riverbank, we paused regularly to admire more stunning rock formations.

Shortly after passing a rapid we began seeing and hearing more people and new the end, and ice cream at the Skywalk Cafe, was getting close.

We paused for a victory photo back at Nature’s Window before returning to the comfort of our car, satisfied with another day enjoying this iconic location.

But not all of Kalbarri’s best views are found on the trail.

In May 2022, Leanne and I celebrated our wedding anniversary with a weekend in the Porongurup region of WA.

Most of the weekend was spent sheltering from severe weather in our cosy accommodation, so when we finally set out for Castle Rock we parked as far away from potentially hazardous trees as possible.

Filled with energy, I immediately started playing on the big Karri logs.

Which made me thirsty…

Once the climb began, I was struck by the meticulous stonework that dominated the trail.

The damp conditions rewarded us with lots of beautiful fungi.

We paused for a photo at the Karri Lookout.

From there we covered the more technical scramble & ladder climb to the summit.

Where we found the “big moment” was blocked by another peak…

Undeterred we took in the views before beginning the descent.

On the way back down I especially enjoyed the lichen.

As well as the changing views.

Even without the sunset shot we hoped for it was a beautiful walk that rewarded us for seizing the moment!

The Bald Head Walk is one of WA’s most iconic bushwalking trails and not for the faint of heart! Climbing and descending along the exposed granite spine of the Flinders Peninsula, the track rewards hikers with panoramic views across the Southern Ocean.

Already in the area for a wedding at nearby Frenchmans Bay, Leanne and I arrived a day early for another adventure.

Unlike the short walks and lookouts Torndirrup National Park is best known for, the Bald Head Walk commits to the exposed ridgeline almost immediately.

In 2018, the short boardwalks quickly gave way to a more rugged walking track.

Following the ridgeline, the trail offered little protection from the elements, but every climb revealed another spectacular view.

Beyond the sandy sections, the trail became rockier and considerably windier.

By the time Bald Head came into view, we were already exhausted.

A sheltered grove of coastal banksias gave us a brief reprieve from the elements before the final push.

Beyond the grove, one final climb brought us to Bald Head.

The walk back was a little slower, with plenty of opportunities to stop and rest.

I even found what looked like the perfect granite armchair.

The reverse angle was... unexpected.

In early 2026 the Arboretum Trails opened, diversifying an already fantastic network and elevating Pemberton to Western Australia's leading Trail Town for flow and skill progression.

I was privileged to be involved in the initial community consultation process with the PCA and the trails were ultimately built by my former employer, Magic Dirt.

Leanne and I were lucky enough to get a sneak peek of the Arboretum Trails in December, but my hand injury had kept me away ever since.

In the time I had been off the bike, Jonno’s riding had progressed considerably. I knew these trails would be perfect for building his confidence and taking his skills to the next level.

This proved true, and Jonno kept up with us throughout the first day, only passing on Barney, one of the more advanced trails in the network.

After a full day of riding, we settled into the Pemberton Caravan Park, chosen for its hot showers and easy access to town.

On the second morning the rain arrived, so we waited it out with a drive along the Heartbreak Trail, stopping at the Bicentennial Tree where Jonno climbed to the first platform.

When the rain eased, we returned to the Pemberton Pool and the original mountain bike park. After a session on the purpose-built jump lines helping Jonno refine his technique, we began the steep climb up Bandit's Rise.

A later addition to the network, this trail provides a direct return from two of the downhill trails back to the trailhead, while also offering views across the mist-covered valley below.

After two big climbs, we had worked up an appetite big enough to eat a horse, so we detoured to Hidden River for lunch.

By the time we were done there, we were done riding up hills so we switched to shuttles. Jonno loved riding Cool Runnings, while Leanne achieved the second-fastest women's time on Bloody Mary.

Thrilled with the day's achievements, we returned to the Pemberton Pool for a winter solstice swim.

By the final day it was clear my hand wasn’t quite as recovered as I’d hoped. I returned to Barney with a much more confident Jonno before switching to shuttle driving for the remainder of the visit.

On our way out of town we spotted volunteers installing a new entry statement at the pool. It's this sort of local effort that keeps Pemberton's trail network evolving and gives us more reasons to come back.

Waking to a smoky haze in Collie, Leanne and I headed for the coast in search of clearer skies and a new adventure.

A quick search led us to Maidens Reserve on Bunbury’s southern coastline, where we traded smoke and haze for fresh air, coastal views and towering tuart trees.

We were immediately impressed by the quality of the trail and the surprising scale of the reserve, which felt far removed from the surrounding suburbia.

On our first visit we stuck to the official trails, but after enjoying the coastal scenery and realising just how much of the reserve remained unexplored, we knew we had to come back.

Return Visit

The next time we were in Bunbury, we returned to Maidens Reserve to upgrade our leisurely first visit into a proper loop hike through the reserve’s extended trail network.

This time we parked at Mindalong Beach and followed the Coastal Trail until reaching the turn-off for the lookouts and playground, where we continued south instead.

To our delight, the quality of the trail did not diminish, with the crushed limestone surface and gentle gradients continuing along the same alignment for kilometres, providing access throughout the network.

Having reached the southern end of the reserve, we crossed inland to the Tuart Walk.

The most developed trail in the broader network, the Tuart Walk links Usher and Dalyellup via a sealed shared-use path through tuart and peppermint woodland.

From here we navigated towards the Maidens Reserve Playground, encountering some steep hills along the way.

If we were planning a future visit, we'd probably spend less time along the eastern boundary. The trails here were among the steepest in the reserve and often ran close to the backs of nearby houses. With so many excellent paths elsewhere in the network, there are better ways to build a loop.

Eventually we rejoined the familiar official trail network near the Maidens Reserve Playground and welcomed the well-built steps up to the lookout.

Halfway up the climb, we paused for a photo amongst the treetops.

At the top, the sun emerged from behind the clouds, casting patches of light across the reserve and ocean beyond.

With the views enjoyed, we began making our way back through the reserve, once again appreciating the gentle gradients and well-built trails.

We closed our loop with a gentle stroll back along the Coastal Trail, taking in one final set of ocean views.

In May 2024, after repairing our equipment in Perth, Leanne and I headed south to Peaceful Bay. With my return to trail building in the Valley of the Giants approaching, we took the opportunity to revisit some favourite places along the South Coast.

Peaceful Bay

We arrived at Peaceful Bay Caravan Park with plenty of time to set up camp. Just a short walk from the beach, the park features lush grassy campsites shaded by peppermint trees, along with a modern shower block and cosy camp kitchen.

With camp established, we wandered down to the beach for sunset. We were surprised and thrilled to discover a controlled burn taking place across the water, adding smoke and fire to an already picturesque evening.

Exploring the Surrounds

The extended summer continued throughout our stay encouraging us to explore the local area by four wheel drive and kayak.

Leanne completed an assignment outside in the sun, and celebrated finishing her uni semester with a top tier milkshake at The Marron Tale.

Conspicuous Cliff

We ended the month of May with a visit to Conspicuous Cliff, a stunning location nearby that never disappoints.

We climbed to the highest lookout to watch the sunset and Leanne quickly spotted some migrating humpback whales.

Hyped up on whale excitement she ran back down the stairs for zoomies on the beach.

Which made her quite thirsty.

Home Again

Between the spectacular sunsets, warm weather and migrating whales, Peaceful Bay was the perfect welcome back to the South West.

The first week of winter was spent excitedly watching the Saturday forecast for the Margaret River region. When the low winds held, I upgraded our planned river paddle to an ocean adventure.

Leanne and I packed everything Friday afternoon, and Jonno arrived Friday night, preparing us for an early start to our Saturday adventure.

The original plan was a return paddle from Canal Rocks to Yallingup, however big swell and bad vibes encouraged us to reconsider.

Decision made, we quickly reset the equipment, then headed to a cafe to reset our spirits.

After a hearty brunch at La Lah there was still plenty of good weather left in the day, so we headed over to the sheltered side of the cape and put in at Eagle Bay.

Setting out, the water was calm and crystal clear. Although we once again had to contend with swell around the rocky headland into Bunker Bay, we were rewarded with a close encounter with the local dolphins.

Leaving the dolphins behind, we paddled north towards Shelly Cove and Point Merchant, giving the growing swell and breaking waves plenty of room.

The closer we got to the lighthouse, the rougher the conditions became.

We decided to snap a few pictures and retreat to safer waters.

To our delight, the dolphin pod was still there on the return journey, providing a welcome boost as we settled in for the paddle home.

Before long, we were back in Eagle Bay with the boat ramp in sight.

Back at the beach, we were pleased to find it was still only early afternoon, so we took some time to enjoy the view across the bay before cooling off with a swim.

Eventually our appetites got the better of us, so we made the short trip up the hill to Eagle Bay Brewery for a bite to eat.

We finished the day relaxing in the sun, enjoying a bite to eat and gazing out towards the lighthouse, this time with plenty of land between us.

The Nancy’s Peak Circuit is one of the Porongurup's most popular walks. With clear skies forecast, Leanne and I met up with our good friend and Porongurup local, Nathan, for a morning on the trail.

Completing the loop in a clockwise direction we first passed Tree in the Rock.

Continuing up the well-formed steps we observed caterpillars huddling for warmth.

Then we emerged from the trees at the first lookout, where the Stirling Range stretched across the horizon.

From here the trail continued to climb, leaving behind the wide well formed steps for a narrow mountain trail.

Several more open rock slabs provided views of the Stirling Range to the north...

…and the ocean to the South.

The trail provides a stunning view of Devil’s Slide before descending into the valley between.

As we descended into the sheltered gullies, the damp conditions brought out fungi and mosses.

We wrapped up the day with lunch at Karribank Tavern & Restaurant, a new favourite with great food, cute animals and views back to the day’s adventure.

Our kayak had developed several leaks after a year of heavy use, so a stop in Perth in May 2024 became an opportunity to learn a new skill and put it back into service.

Kayak Repair

We used Leanne’s childhood trampoline as a workbench. Alan and I filled the kayak with water to find the leaks, while Echo excitedly watched us tip it back out.

Some leaks were so small I had to get up close, using the trampoline as a hammock, and wait patiently for a single drop of water to form.

Once we found a leak, we flipped the kayak over, resting it on the trampoline frame, which turned out to be the perfect height for using my new plastic welder.

By the time we finished, we had patched up six holes and my welding skills had improved so much that the universe gave me an aura!

We celebrated the repair job with lunch by the river, where Echo soaked up the attention from his big sisters Leanne and Erica.

Shoalwater Islands Paddle

A few days later, it was time to test the quality of my repairs, I invited Jonno to join me for a paddle in the sun.

We launched from Shoalwater Beach aiming for Seal Island, part of the Shoalwater Islands Marine Park Paddle trail.

The kayak handled perfectly. We quickly reached the seal viewing mooring, where we counted 18 sea lions basking in the sun before heading over to Penguin Island.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by a large pod of pelicans. One even took flight right in front of us.

After a picnic lunch we hiked the Penguin Island Walk Trail, enjoying panoramic views and stopping often to watch the local skinks basking in the sun.

The sunny weather was too good to call it a day, so we swung by Seal Island again on the way back and finished with a few cold beers at the Rockingham Foreshore.

The Verdict

The repairs held perfectly and the kayak has since gone on many more adventures without issue. I’m glad I took a chance on plastic welding; learning to repair the kayak myself was surprisingly straightforward and has added an extra layer of satisfaction to every paddle since.

Bonus

Leanne at Penguin Island December 2014

For both Leanne and me, the Nyuts Wilderness helped shape our love for adventurous places. We first came here as teenagers for holiday camps and kept returning throughout early adulthood.

Day 1 - Approach

Planning this trip involved balancing my long-term hiking injuries, the restrictions from my injured thumb (no mountain biking or kayaking!), and the challenge of returning to lighter hiking setups after years of more comfortable kayaking expeditions.

We chose a hiking trip to work around the thumb injury and adjusted pack weights to suit our abilities (Xander 16kg and Leanne 24kg). We also upgraded to new air mattresses and a more spacious hiking tent.

We set out in the early afternoon and crossed the Deep River Suspension Bridge.

Surrounded by old-growth marri and tingle forest, this landmark is part of both the Kapagup Nornalup Paddle Trail Network and the Bibbulmun Track. It has featured in many of our past adventures.

Continuing on, the Nyuts Track moves away from Mount Clare and the forest gives way to swampland which lights up with yellow kangaroo paws in summer.

The Nyuts Track splits from the Bibbulmun at a boot-cleaning station designed to help prevent the spread of phytophthora dieback into the wilderness area. Further south, Mount Hopkins comes into view.

Thompson’s Cove Campsite

Thompson’s Cove campsite has two parts; the shaded camping area, “Peppermints,” and the beach itself. Both are accessed via a spur trail to the clearing and there are no facilities other than stream water.

To manage my ongoing injuries and increase our comfort we set up camp at Thompson’s Cove for all four nights of our trip, and still had just enough time for a swim before dark.

We were impressed with our new tent, the Denali Guide II. This tent features a spacious, symmetrical design and weighs in at only 2.45kg. We found the design to be very functional; with room to sit up whichever way you set it up and loads of room for storage in the vestibules. It even comes in a dry bag!

Around camp Leanne maintained her tradition of quirky lounge-wear from years past:

Day 2 - Aldridge Cove

The Aldridge Cove lookout is the official end to the Nyut’s Track and only a kilometre from the turn-off to Thompson’s, which made it an ideal first day trip after hiking in with our heavy packs.

We gave ourselves a relaxed start to the day, beginning with hot drinks at camp, packing only our day-trip essentials before heading out.

We soon arrived at the lookout and took time to appreciate the view of the Cave across the water, but decided to leave this rugged feature out of the day’s journey.

From here we climbed over rocks and followed roo-trails down to the beach itself.

I climbed up the valley for a better view.

But not as far as years past:

We spent the rest of the day snorkelling and relaxing at the beach.

Then, back at camp the day ended with an innovative camp dessert from Leanne: apples stewed in herbal tea!

Day 3 - Lost Beach

The first real adventure of the trip, there is no formal trail to Lost Beach and getting there requires experience navigating through thick scrub, and dodging 100s of Golden Orb spiders.

We stopped for lunch at the top of ‘Paradise Hill’ a clearing with views to other major landmarks including Long Point and Chatham Island.

We were rewarded with panoramic ocean views and dazzling blue water below.

From here the route descends quickly with Lost Beach rapidly coming into view.

Lost Beach is a tiny sliver of sand on an otherwise very rugged section of coast and is not suitable for swimming.

But that didn’t stop us from wading in for a refresh!

Retracing our steps we were originally daunted by the steep climb, but were back on Paradise Hill in no time!

There we found this curious burrow, neither of us certain which animal the tracks belonged to.

Finally Mount Hopkins came back into view, guiding us back to camp.

Day 4 - Mount Hopkins

Rising to 205 metres above sea level with its distinctive rocky crown, Mount Hopkins is an ever present feature of the sandy Nyuts terrain.

We set out for Mount Hopkins directly from the campsite, following another familiar but overgrown off-track route.

We left our packs on the open slabs and boulder-climbed our way to the summit.

The summit provides panoramic views with Aldridge Cove and the Nyuts track visible to the west… and Bellanger Beach/Conspicuous Cliff to the east.

…and Bellanger Beach/Conspicuous Cliff to the east.

We completed our experience with a visit to some old growth tingle trees found on previous adventures.

Leanne kept up our tradition of posing as the tree we’re photographing.

We picked a better path on our way back to Thompson’s cove, making fast progress and only stopping to photograph some emerging wildflowers.

Arriving back at camp we had just enough sunshine left to really enjoy another snorkel at the best swimming spot of the trip, Thompson’s Cove itself.

Day 5 - Departure

On the final morning, with our food supplies largely gone, we used the extra space in our packs to carry out the rubbish we had gathered from the beaches throughout the trip.

With less to carry we made fast progress, returning to our car in less than two hours, and had our final swim at the deep river rope swing.

Ten years on, adventuring in the Nyuts Wilderness was as enjoyable as ever.

Less than 100km from Adelaide, Deep Creek National Park is the largest remaining block of natural vegetation on the Fleurieu Penin­su­la. The park features an extensive bushwalking trail network, including parts of the Heysen Trail, as well as 5 separate campsites.

On the reccomendation of local family Leanne and I planned a 3 day adventure to the area, booking ourselves in for two nights at Trig Campground.

Delayed Departure

We booked our site at Trig Campground for the 25th and 26th of December with a plan to spend Christmas Day in the Barossa Valley and travel down in the evening. When the time came to leave, we were too engrossed in a lively family board game session, and chose to keep partying and travel down early the next morning instead.

Getting There

The drive from the Barrossa Valley to the Fleurieu Penin­su­la followed one of South Australias major highways, we travelled along a 2-3 lane thoroughfare that slowly shrunk down to a much narrower windy road. Along the way we watched increasing rain and fog roll in from the South and hunted around for somewhere on route, and open, to buy rainjackets.

We noticed the similarity in climate and agriculture to WA's Margaret River Region, but were struck by the contrast between the steepness of the landscapes, driving through dozens of fields of sheep grazing on 45 degree slopes we began to appreciate just how flat WA really is.

The Deep Creek Circuit Hike

“The most challenging trail in the park" This is a very scenic route that combines a dedicated track along the rugged coastline with a section of the Heyson Trail/Wild South Coast Way that passes by Deep Creek Waterfall in the woodlands further inland.

All the available literature recommends completing this circuit in a clockwise direction. Although this was our intent, we took the wrong path at the start and were too far in to head back by the time we realised what we had done

Ultimately we were happy with that outcome as it meant we spent the majority of our hike gently strolling downhill only occasionally interrupted by a few steep but short climbs. We took these in our stride and reassured ourselves it would be good training for the South Coast Trail, we planned to tackle later on in Tasmania.

Deep Creek Cove

Approximately 2km into our adventure we reached Deep Creek Cove, following our counter-clockwise route we first encountered a cute sheltered creek side path before rounding the corner to the wild coastline.

If you are interested in doing this walk make sure you know the conditions before you go as this creek can become very dangerous in flood conditions and crossing should not be attempted then.

Steep Climbs

After crossing Deep Creek we were met with the consequences of our choices as we scrambled our way up the opposite bank, but we were in good spirits and welcomed the technical challenge.

The reward for the climb was spectacular views along the coast as the trail climbed over the headland and then through another cove.

The next section was the least enjoyable following our counter-clockwise route; we climbed a reclaimed fire trail straight up a hill for more than a kilometre, had we been walking the other way we would have been able enjoy ocean views the whole way down.

Heyson Trail

We passed the turnoff for Tapanappa Lookout, the 2nd access point to the Deep Creek Circuit, joined the Heyson Trail and began our journey back to camp.

We immediately noticed the difference in grade and style of this half of the loop, where the Deep Creek Cove trails had been a mix of goat tracks and reclaimed fire trails, this part of the Wild South Coast Way showed distinct signs of modern trail building.

From the trail node to the waterfall the path undulates gently through densely wooded hills.

Deep Creek Waterfall

Deep Creek Waterfall is accessed by a short spur from the main trail. Between the waterfall and Trigg Campground there are a series of steep staircases.

Finish

At the end of the circuit and we passed through open country and left the trail to admire Kangaroos while short-cutting to our campsite.

Camp Craft

We returned to camp with plenty of time to for dinner and cleanup in the light, as well as more time with the local kangaroos.

Bonus 4x4 Adventure

On the morning of the 27th we woke to drizzly conditions forecast to clear later that day, we decided to delay our kayak at Second Valley and explore the Deep Creek National Park some more.

From Trig Campground we followed the road to Cobblers Hill campground then engaged low range 4x4 for the drive down to Blowhole Beach.

Return to Heyson Trail

Nearing the end of the Blowhole Beach trail we once again met up with the Wild South Coast Way which offered hazy views across to Kangaroo Island.

Reflections

This is one of a number of times over the course of our trip where we stuck to our plans in non-ideal weather. It worked out ok here since overcast days are perfect for hiking.

But running late could have been an issue for our original plan to do the Deep Creek circuit in the early hours of the morning, followed by a swim, and we were perhaps too quick to dismiss riding our bikes in the area after the heatwave we experienced in Melrose.

Trail Tip

As someone who is prone to being a completionist our experience in Deep Creek was good practice for me. We researched the area, and made a plan that gave us an immersive experience that included most of the elements of the local area, then moved on with plenty of time to explore other places without feeling like we had missed anything.

Links

https://www.parks.sa.gov.au/parks/deep-creek-national-park

Coming Soon

Continue the journey with Xander and Leanne, picking up later on the 27th of December as they make there way over to Second Valley and explore sea caves from their kayak!

More Like This

This post is part of my epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania.

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Three hours drive from Adelaide or one from Port Augusta, Melrose, the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges, is now an up and coming mountain biking tourism destination worth having on your radar.

Over the last 20 years the local network has grown from a few hand-cut trails to almost 100km catering to a variety of riders.

As is so often the case the secret ingredient is a passionate group of locals maintaining stakeholder relationships and campaigning for new developments.

Here, these people are represented by the Bike Melrose club and the Over The Edge Bike Shop/Cafe. All the locals we spoke to were extremely passionate about their trails and eager to set us up with the best itinerary possible.

In this post I'll start with my experience in Melrose and finish with my recommendations for other visitors.

About Us

Leanne and I are intermediate mountain bikers who visited Melrose on our epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania. To start at the beginning of the whole adventure click here.

At the time of our visit we were out of practice riders; with the exception of one week in October, we hadn’t ridden since early March the same year.

We are both comfortable on blue/’more difficult’ trails and happy to dabble in some black/’very difficult’. I outpace Leanne on technical trails and she overtakes me on air/flow.

Wilowie Forest Trails

Constructed by Trailscapes in 2021 the Wilowie Forest Trails are where the friendly staff at Over The Edge sent us first. These trails offer beginner-friendly loops, a rail trail link to Melrose and the end point for the Bale Out exit from the Remarkable Epic Trail. The trailhead features covered picnic facilities, a bike repair station and toilets.

This is a well designed trail network with the easy, family friendly trails surrounding the trailhead on the gentler terrain and more difficult trails further afield on the steeper slopes.

We rode most of the network and it served us well; testing out our riding muscles, getting us used to the heat, and introducing us to riding scree slopes on Awky Squawky. Everything was achievable, but the heat was starting to get to us by the end of our ride.

Over The Edge Bike Shop/Cafe

We were too hot and tired to consider making our own lunch by the time we finished at Wilowee, so we met Erica, Alan and Echo at Over The Edge.

Over The Edge - Melrose is a quintessential bike shop/cafe. It has great smoothies and toasted sandwiches, friendly and knowledgeable staff, delightful baked goods and quality merchandise. We enjoyed lunch together looking up at Mount Remarkable, then organised E-bike hire, stocked up on muesli bars and bought Leanne a riding jersey off the clearance rack.

E-MTB Practice

We waited until the shadow of Mt Remarkable was shading the mountain bike park before picking up our E-bikes and beginning our test ride. We began with Monument Trail and between the incline, heat and our tiredness we were immediately glad to have the electronic assist.

Dodging Bullets, the feature of our ride, is a microcosm of the Melrose mountain bike park. It's grading, very difficult (black), seems to be a relic of it’s age or consequence of the exposure/elevation of the trail rather than the technical difficulty of any of the trail features.

The trail is comprised of original hand cut sections next to steep slopes and new machine built refurbishments, both of which meander between farmland and native forest. Like everything in Melrose it’s best enjoyed by fit, cross country riders, or on an E-Mountain Bike.

At the end of the Dodging Bullets the trail merges into Dualling Banjo’s a fantastic little dual slalom track that takes you right back to the caravan park. I overtook Leanne on the final leg, but she was pretty happy with her consolation prize of doggo cuddles.

Remarkable Epic Trail

The Remarkable Epic Trail is the jewel in the crown of Melrose’s Mountain Bike network and the source of their recent bump in popularity.

As an Epic Trail it is long (40km), demanding, technical, and majority singletrack. The Remarkable Epic Trail starts with a climb straight up 1000m of elevation over 14km. This filter feature and the overall length made it clear we would need E-bikes to achieve this ride.

This was our first time riding E-bikes and we both absolutely loved it. Although we played it safe with our battery life sticking to ‘eco’ and ‘trail’ and avoiding ‘boost’ so as not to run out later on when we would be more tired.

We were especially glad of the free momentum when we started crossing scree slopes about half way up.

At the completion of North Face we were already tiring and out of food this is where you pass Bale Out, the only option to cut the epic trail short without a pick-up, but we were too passionate to give up and continued on to Giddy Up and the summit.

After Giddy Up is Yeah Gnar this long awaited reward for all the climbing features almost 4km of continuous descent. It was also the 1st of the many places in Melrose described as “blue with black features” that actually lived up to it’s description, everything else having felt one grade lower than it’s official rating.

That being said we were already riding conservatively at this point due to growing fatigue.

Yeah Gnar’s steep elevation and natural forest gives way to undulating terrain and grassy fields. A short distance from the trail is a hikers hut which provides a welcome opportunity to top up water.

From the hikers hut you begin Granny Gray’s a primarily descent trail through private property with little to no shade. Between the hot sun (it was now close to 1pm), the hunger, fatigue, and needing to stop to open and close gates we had the distinct impression that this section of trail could’ve been a lot of fun under different circumstances.

Granny Gray’s finishes at a road access then the trail enters Home Run. The steep descent sections of this segment were some of my favourite parts of the whole Epic, they combine rocky tech with extreme exposure.

Leanne, with her reflexes heavily impaired from fatigue began walking over more and more features here, despite them being well within her usual capabilities. We began to worry that this would cause our ride time to blow out to a point where we had new problems, but with a bit of a rest and a pep talk we were able to continue, and thankfully the trail mellowed out again.

As the trail nears it’s end you get distant views of Melrose to spur you on. We also re-entered reception and were able to check the upcoming terrain regularly on Strava.

On this final section we finally stopped conserving battery and used boost liberally. This was an absolute game-changer making the uphills feel like gentle downhills and powering us across the scree slopes.

We didn’t get to ride the very last descent of the trail as Trailscapes were installing the final features. Instead we were redirected onto Throwing Copper one of the other crowd favourite trails we had hoped to get time to ride.

We finally arrived back at our campsite close to 3pm and immediately began shovelling as much food into our mouths as we could.

Leanne was rewarded for her troubles by becoming the inaugural Remarkable Epic Trail E-Bike Queen of the Mountain.

Jacka Brothers Brewery

Jacka Brothers Brewery is located at the heritage listed premises of Melrose’s original 1877 Brewery. The building pictured above, with the bar on the bottom floor, was once where beer was brewed, starting at the top and going through different processes on each level before being piped across to the basement in the opposite building which is now used as a function room.

The bar is trendy and modern with many local beer, wine and gin offerings, and the owner has partnered with two other businesses to provide dining options on site.

It was a perfect fit for us after a long day's ride in the sun. Everyone enjoyed sampling different drinks as we worked our way through a bowl of nachos and three pizzas over the course of a few board games and chats with other travellers and the owner.

Sightseeing In Melrose

The above video was taken across the road from Jacka Brothers, these cockatoos became louder and louder as the afternoon on and treated us to an amazing show when we went for a closer look

The Brewery Tree seemed to be the number one non-mountain biking attraction in Melrose according to Erica’s research. Upon a closer look we discovered it made the lofty claim of being the 25th largest river red gum in South Australia and Victoria. We didn’t think this was that impressive, especially since there was another that seemed just as big around the corner.

That being said it is impressive for its age, more than 300 years, which is particularly notable since nesting hollows don’t start to form until these trees are well over 100 years old. It also seems to have been something of a cultural icon for generations as a meeting place for community groups and more recently wedding parties.

My Recommendations

If you're passing through the area, or local to SA, Melrose is well worth a visit!

Important Considerations

There are two challenges to making the most of a Melrose visit; the steep terrain and the climate.

A lot of the Melrose trails have an old school cross country feel. Even the most exciting descents are interrupted by climbs, and if you're going to include the epic, the elevation is leagues beyond anything in WA.

So if you are a bike-fit cross country rider you will love this network, but if just shredding down hills is more your speed, you should budget for an E-bike.

When it comes to the climate Melrose experiences a variety of extremes. We met a few of the builders from Trailscapes while riding the epic and they told us that in the last week they had had stop work orders because of both heat and rain!

For our visit the heat was an ever present challenge, but our subsequent adventures on the South Australian coast were much cooler with some light rain, we would have loved to have had it the other way around.

The best case scenario would be to visit Melrose in Autumn or Spring, but whenever you go you'll get the most out of your experience if you have the flexibility to shuffle around your itinerary based on the weather, plan enough time for everything you want to do but don't lock anything in until you get there.

Mountain Biking Routes

If you have lots of time you can compliment a flexible itinerary by building up to the epic trail by following the suggestions below, otherwise just pick a few that appeal to you the most.

Wilowie Forest Trails

This small network described above is an excellent warm up or family friendly location, we rode almost the whole network in about 2 hours. It can be added on to a loop of the Bale Out trail or accessed via the Southern Flinders Rail Trail.

Bartagunyah MTB Trails

Melrose's second satellite network, we didn't make it here, but I would plan half a day here if I visited again. These trails are situated on Bartagunyah Estate, and feature views of the Spencer Gulf, the network is about the same size as Wilowie so you could spend half a day at each and finish with a wine tasting at the cellar door.

For the more adventurous incorporate these trails into the Home Run Loop described below.

Melrose Town Trails

The feature network of the town has numerous trails starting and finishing within the Melrose Caravan and Tourist Park. Enjoy the mix of old and new in this well loved network featuring Dodging Bullets and Throwing Copper, but be prepared to pedal!

If you're staying at the caravan park there is also a handy pump track by the campsites and the dual slalom track Dualling Banjo's on the lowest slopes of the mountain, both great for burning extra energy.

Home Run Loop

One of my favourite sections of the Remarkable Epic Trail was the steep, technical, exposed descents of the Home Run segment. Thanks to Horse Gully Road it is possible to shuttle just this part of the trail, or better yet take the Mawson Trail from Melrose to create a loop that passes by Bartagunyah!

For those with time to spare, or on the fence this is a perfect way to sample the Remarkable Epic Trail without committing to the big climb.

North Face and Bale Out

Another taster option for the Remarkable Epic Trail, this route is a classic enduro. Climb 600 vertical metres to the trail junction then turn right and ride the purpose built descent for over 6km before it feeds into the Wilowie network. Return to Melrose via the Southern Flinders Rail Trail.

This is the trail I was most disappointed to miss, it appears to be one of the longest continuous descents in the town with multiple line choice and amazing views.

The Remarkable Epic Trail

Refer to my breakdown above for more details, but the important thing to know is that this is a gruelling ride. With a massive 1000m climb to begin with and huge portions of the trail exposed to the sun you need to be capable and committed.

Try to pick a cooler day for this and bring both more food and more water than you think you will need. Our ride blew out by several hours and we spent that whole time wishing we had brought lunch.

Places to Eat

Over The Edge - Melrose and Jacka Brothers Brewery are both trendy venues discussed above. The town also features two pubs, if a hearty meal and commercial beer is more your speed.

Alligator Gorge

One other place I would have loved to visit if weather permitted is Alligator Gorge, a 9km bushwalking loop through a canyon, with spectacular displays of wildflowers and cascades in springtime.

Coming Soon

From Melrose we drove to the Barossa Valley for Christmas, and then Leanne and I broke off for our first time alone in two weeks, exploring the South Australian Coast.

Lookout for a write-up on Deep Creek and Second Valley coming soon, and subscribe to never miss an update.

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This post is part of my epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania, also featuring Leanne and cameos from other adventurers.

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Caiguna Blowhole

The Nullarbor Plain is a lot of driving with not much to see or do, we made a point of stopping to checkout any interesting land forms we found along the way.

The first such stop was the Caiguna Blowhole, which is part of a much, much larger cave network spreading throughout the Nullarbor. Notable for being the driest Karst (limestone) area in the world, and having prominent ‘breathing’ (due to their small openings) with wind speeds of 72kph having been recorded.

The Caiguna Blowhole is filled with rubble, leaving only a small opening to what lays beyond, but when you crouch down it's easy to feel the movement in the air.

Wear and Tear

As the journey wore on so did our makeshift bike cover. It was also around this time that we realised our fridge was struggling to stay cool again.

State Border

The border village was one of the few places we had stable phone reception on this leg of the journey, so we lost an hour catching up on some urgent life admin, but we still took a moment to appreciate the local ‘big thing’ featuring a spectacular Aussie mashup.

The Great Australian Bite

After you cross the border you are still very remote, the quarantine for South Australia isn’t for quite a while, the next day in our case, instead you get to enjoy some spectacular cliff views in the no man’s land in between.

The light was fading as we rushed between each of these viewpoints, but that made for some spectacular sights.

The only downside being that when we checked into the Nullabor Roadhouse at what we thought was 6:05pm butwas actually 9:05pm and the attendant was trying to close for the day. Needless to say, no pub meal for us that night, and given the time it was straight to bed.

The Next Big Thing!

The next day we reentered civilisation, replaced our vegetables and found some new Archies for me.

Continuing on we passed through Kimba, a town proud of being the halfway point across Australia and featuring The Big Galah. We made galahs of ourselves trying to trying to match it’s pose.

Flinders Rangers

The closer we got to Port Augusta the more the limestone fell away and was replaced by iron ore country resembling the Pilbara. We drove straight through town and onto the mountain pass.

Distractions

Entering the mountains, with Melrose less than an hour away we began to get excited and distractible. The first thing to catch my eye was a mountain bike trail-head. Online information on this trail wasn’t forthcoming, but I later found out it loosely follows the highway down the mountains to the east.

The circumstances where it would work well are few, but eastbound mountain bikers could use this spot to unload there bikes and have some passengers ride down the range instead of drive.

Lookout

A little further along the road we followed a sign for a lookout which gave us sweeping, but glarey views over the Spencer Gulf.

Melrose

We made it to Melrose well into the evening local time where we were met by Alan, Leanne and Erica’s dad, along with my dog-in-law Echo.

It was past 8 by the time we stepped into a local pub and they seemed like they had been closing up. That being said the lady working the bar was very quick to change gears and provide us all with a hearty meal which we enjoyed together gazing up at Mount Remarkable.

Reflections

Looking back over our time crossing the Nullarbor I was left with the feeling that the detours weren’t worth it.

I love Esperance, and could probably spend a whole summer there, or even live there, but trying to make a visit work on a tight schedule just wasn’t worth it. We didn’t get the weather or time to enjoy it properly, and the 3 extra days would have been more valuable further from home.

If you’re a Western Australian heading east keep Esperance for it’s own trip and cross the Nullarbor as quickly as you can safely manage. I also recommend splurging on comfort, 10-15 hour days in the car are much more tolerable if you have a soft bed and hot meal lined up for the end of the day.

Trail Tip

One thing that did work well for the long driving stints was finding an audiobook we could all agree on.

For us that was Daughter of the Deep by Rick Riordan. This is a new book by Leanne’s favourite fantasy author set in a world inspired by 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea.

The themes of ocean and adventure are very relatable for Leanne and myself. Plus Erica and I enjoyed laughing at the inexplicably sexy intonation of the narrator.

Links

Daughter of the Deep - goodreads.com

Next post Monday 2024.03.11

At last we unwrap our bikes and get to experience all the mountain biking that Melrose has to offer. Join myself and Leanne as we warm up at the Willowie Forrest Trails, ride crowd favourites like Dodging Bullets and Casting Copper, then ruin ourselves on the Mount Remarkable Epic Trail.

Leanne and I first visited Ben Island one year prior. We were camping nearby and had seen that it was only one kilometre offshore, a perfect mini adventure.

As we explored the island we were delighted to discover a picturesque rock pool/ infinity pool with low slabs on one side and cliffs on the other.

On this occasion we had only planned for a short paddle, so we had left our snorkels behind and only brought a few muesli bars. As a result we had to keep the outing short and didn’t get a chance to snorkel in the rock pool or scope out the depth for cliff jumping.

We resolved to return one day with snorkels and a packed lunch to spend the whole day lounging in the sun and playing in the rock pool. We’ve been daydreaming about it ever since.

Alexander Bay

We started the day with the short drive down to Alexander Bay (great name), enjoyed breakfast in the picnic area then drove onto the beach.

Esperance’s beaches are famous for their squeaky, firmly packed sand. In the photo above notice how our tyres are still fully inflated and how shallow the tyre tracks still are.

Setting Out

Erica was kind enough to wait with the car and read a book, so Leanne and I were soon underway by ourselves.

Ben Island dominates the horizon above, with a sliver of the mainland visible on the right.

Treacherous Waters

It might not look it in the photo above, but once you enter the channel between Ben Island and the mainland the current and swell are both quite strong. This is one of the reasons that I would advise a lot of caution if you are considering this adventure.

We overcame the challenge by angling into the swell, paddling past the landing point then turning 90 degrees and coasting into the shelter of the island.

There is no easy landing here, you’ve got to jump out between rocks while each wave tries to throw the kayak forward and then pull it out to sea.

Exit Strategy

One of our biggest worries on adventures like this is becoming marooned, so we are always sure to drag the kayak well above the highest point we think waves will come to.

With the boat secured we loaded up for our island adventure, setting off in the direction of the rock pool.

Balancing Rock

We followed the granite slabs clockwise around the island and half way there passed one of our favourite rock features.

In addition to being interesting to look this huge boulder provides some of the only shelter from wind and sun on the island.

The Stone Table

As we continued around the Eastern face of the island we began to more fully appreciate the conditions of the sea below. We passed the stone table, thankfully free of any allegorical lions, and made the final descent.

Rock Pool

We arrived at the rock pool, but could tell there was a lot more water moving in and out than our previous visit.

As tempting as it was to swim anyway after how far we had come to get here, we knew the right call was to back out. The photo below is not even the biggest wave we saw in the pool.

Abandoned Plans

As we made our way back to the kayak the grey clouds mirrored our mood.

Return Journey

On the return journey we allowed the current to push us into the bay, angling the front of the kayak 45 degrees from the flow until we passed the headland. The paddle in was smooth and we breathed a sigh of relief to be back on the mainland.

Silver Lining

We would have loved a day of sunbathing and nature play on Ben Island but wrapping things up before midday meant we were able to cover a good amount of ground. We finished the day back on the main Nullarbor route, even after accounting for an hour of backtracking we had time to set up camp and light a fire in the light.

Reflections