Less than 100km from Adelaide, Deep Creek National Park is the largest remaining block of natural vegetation on the Fleurieu Penin­su­la. The park features an extensive bushwalking trail network, including parts of the Heysen Trail, as well as 5 separate campsites.

On the reccomendation of local family Leanne and I planned a 3 day adventure to the area, booking ourselves in for two nights at Trig Campground.

Delayed Departure

We booked our site at Trig Campground for the 25th and 26th of December with a plan to spend Christmas Day in the Barossa Valley and travel down in the evening. When the time came to leave, we were too engrossed in a lively family board game session, and chose to keep partying and travel down early the next morning instead.

Getting There

The drive from the Barrossa Valley to the Fleurieu Penin­su­la followed one of South Australias major highways, we travelled along a 2-3 lane thoroughfare that slowly shrunk down to a much narrower windy road. Along the way we watched increasing rain and fog roll in from the South and hunted around for somewhere on route, and open, to buy rainjackets.

We noticed the similarity in climate and agriculture to WA's Margaret River Region, but were struck by the contrast between the steepness of the landscapes, driving through dozens of fields of sheep grazing on 45 degree slopes we began to appreciate just how flat WA really is.

The Deep Creek Circuit Hike

“The most challenging trail in the park" This is a very scenic route that combines a dedicated track along the rugged coastline with a section of the Heyson Trail/Wild South Coast Way that passes by Deep Creek Waterfall in the woodlands further inland.

All the available literature recommends completing this circuit in a clockwise direction. Although this was our intent, we took the wrong path at the start and were too far in to head back by the time we realised what we had done

Ultimately we were happy with that outcome as it meant we spent the majority of our hike gently strolling downhill only occasionally interrupted by a few steep but short climbs. We took these in our stride and reassured ourselves it would be good training for the South Coast Trail, we planned to tackle later on in Tasmania.

Deep Creek Cove

Approximately 2km into our adventure we reached Deep Creek Cove, following our counter-clockwise route we first encountered a cute sheltered creek side path before rounding the corner to the wild coastline.

If you are interested in doing this walk make sure you know the conditions before you go as this creek can become very dangerous in flood conditions and crossing should not be attempted then.

Steep Climbs

After crossing Deep Creek we were met with the consequences of our choices as we scrambled our way up the opposite bank, but we were in good spirits and welcomed the technical challenge.

The reward for the climb was spectacular views along the coast as the trail climbed over the headland and then through another cove.

The next section was the least enjoyable following our counter-clockwise route; we climbed a reclaimed fire trail straight up a hill for more than a kilometre, had we been walking the other way we would have been able enjoy ocean views the whole way down.

Heyson Trail

We passed the turnoff for Tapanappa Lookout, the 2nd access point to the Deep Creek Circuit, joined the Heyson Trail and began our journey back to camp.

We immediately noticed the difference in grade and style of this half of the loop, where the Deep Creek Cove trails had been a mix of goat tracks and reclaimed fire trails, this part of the Wild South Coast Way showed distinct signs of modern trail building.

From the trail node to the waterfall the path undulates gently through densely wooded hills.

Deep Creek Waterfall

Deep Creek Waterfall is accessed by a short spur from the main trail. Between the waterfall and Trigg Campground there are a series of steep staircases.

Finish

At the end of the circuit and we passed through open country and left the trail to admire Kangaroos while short-cutting to our campsite.

Camp Craft

We returned to camp with plenty of time to for dinner and cleanup in the light, as well as more time with the local kangaroos.

Bonus 4x4 Adventure

On the morning of the 27th we woke to drizzly conditions forecast to clear later that day, we decided to delay our kayak at Second Valley and explore the Deep Creek National Park some more.

From Trig Campground we followed the road to Cobblers Hill campground then engaged low range 4x4 for the drive down to Blowhole Beach.

Return to Heyson Trail

Nearing the end of the Blowhole Beach trail we once again met up with the Wild South Coast Way which offered hazy views across to Kangaroo Island.

Reflections

This is one of a number of times over the course of our trip where we stuck to our plans in non-ideal weather. It worked out ok here since overcast days are perfect for hiking.

But running late could have been an issue for our original plan to do the Deep Creek circuit in the early hours of the morning, followed by a swim, and we were perhaps too quick to dismiss riding our bikes in the area after the heatwave we experienced in Melrose.

Trail Tip

As someone who is prone to being a completionist our experience in Deep Creek was good practice for me. We researched the area, and made a plan that gave us an immersive experience that included most of the elements of the local area, then moved on with plenty of time to explore other places without feeling like we had missed anything.

Links

https://www.parks.sa.gov.au/parks/deep-creek-national-park

Coming Soon

Continue the journey with Xander and Leanne, picking up later on the 27th of December as they make there way over to Second Valley and explore sea caves from their kayak!

More Like This

This post is part of my epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania.

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Three hours drive from Adelaide or one from Port Augusta, Melrose, the oldest town in the Flinders Ranges, is now an up and coming mountain biking tourism destination worth having on your radar.

Over the last 20 years the local network has grown from a few hand-cut trails to almost 100km catering to a variety of riders.

As is so often the case the secret ingredient is a passionate group of locals maintaining stakeholder relationships and campaigning for new developments.

Here, these people are represented by the Bike Melrose club and the Over The Edge Bike Shop/Cafe. All the locals we spoke to were extremely passionate about their trails and eager to set us up with the best itinerary possible.

In this post I'll start with my experience in Melrose and finish with my recommendations for other visitors.

About Us

Leanne and I are intermediate mountain bikers who visited Melrose on our epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania. To start at the beginning of the whole adventure click here.

At the time of our visit we were out of practice riders; with the exception of one week in October, we hadn’t ridden since early March the same year.

We are both comfortable on blue/’more difficult’ trails and happy to dabble in some black/’very difficult’. I outpace Leanne on technical trails and she overtakes me on air/flow.

Wilowie Forest Trails

Constructed by Trailscapes in 2021 the Wilowie Forest Trails are where the friendly staff at Over The Edge sent us first. These trails offer beginner-friendly loops, a rail trail link to Melrose and the end point for the Bale Out exit from the Remarkable Epic Trail. The trailhead features covered picnic facilities, a bike repair station and toilets.

This is a well designed trail network with the easy, family friendly trails surrounding the trailhead on the gentler terrain and more difficult trails further afield on the steeper slopes.

We rode most of the network and it served us well; testing out our riding muscles, getting us used to the heat, and introducing us to riding scree slopes on Awky Squawky. Everything was achievable, but the heat was starting to get to us by the end of our ride.

Over The Edge Bike Shop/Cafe

We were too hot and tired to consider making our own lunch by the time we finished at Wilowee, so we met Erica, Alan and Echo at Over The Edge.

Over The Edge - Melrose is a quintessential bike shop/cafe. It has great smoothies and toasted sandwiches, friendly and knowledgeable staff, delightful baked goods and quality merchandise. We enjoyed lunch together looking up at Mount Remarkable, then organised E-bike hire, stocked up on muesli bars and bought Leanne a riding jersey off the clearance rack.

E-MTB Practice

We waited until the shadow of Mt Remarkable was shading the mountain bike park before picking up our E-bikes and beginning our test ride. We began with Monument Trail and between the incline, heat and our tiredness we were immediately glad to have the electronic assist.

Dodging Bullets, the feature of our ride, is a microcosm of the Melrose mountain bike park. It's grading, very difficult (black), seems to be a relic of it’s age or consequence of the exposure/elevation of the trail rather than the technical difficulty of any of the trail features.

The trail is comprised of original hand cut sections next to steep slopes and new machine built refurbishments, both of which meander between farmland and native forest. Like everything in Melrose it’s best enjoyed by fit, cross country riders, or on an E-Mountain Bike.

At the end of the Dodging Bullets the trail merges into Dualling Banjo’s a fantastic little dual slalom track that takes you right back to the caravan park. I overtook Leanne on the final leg, but she was pretty happy with her consolation prize of doggo cuddles.

Remarkable Epic Trail

The Remarkable Epic Trail is the jewel in the crown of Melrose’s Mountain Bike network and the source of their recent bump in popularity.

As an Epic Trail it is long (40km), demanding, technical, and majority singletrack. The Remarkable Epic Trail starts with a climb straight up 1000m of elevation over 14km. This filter feature and the overall length made it clear we would need E-bikes to achieve this ride.

This was our first time riding E-bikes and we both absolutely loved it. Although we played it safe with our battery life sticking to ‘eco’ and ‘trail’ and avoiding ‘boost’ so as not to run out later on when we would be more tired.

We were especially glad of the free momentum when we started crossing scree slopes about half way up.

At the completion of North Face we were already tiring and out of food this is where you pass Bale Out, the only option to cut the epic trail short without a pick-up, but we were too passionate to give up and continued on to Giddy Up and the summit.

After Giddy Up is Yeah Gnar this long awaited reward for all the climbing features almost 4km of continuous descent. It was also the 1st of the many places in Melrose described as “blue with black features” that actually lived up to it’s description, everything else having felt one grade lower than it’s official rating.

That being said we were already riding conservatively at this point due to growing fatigue.

Yeah Gnar’s steep elevation and natural forest gives way to undulating terrain and grassy fields. A short distance from the trail is a hikers hut which provides a welcome opportunity to top up water.

From the hikers hut you begin Granny Gray’s a primarily descent trail through private property with little to no shade. Between the hot sun (it was now close to 1pm), the hunger, fatigue, and needing to stop to open and close gates we had the distinct impression that this section of trail could’ve been a lot of fun under different circumstances.

Granny Gray’s finishes at a road access then the trail enters Home Run. The steep descent sections of this segment were some of my favourite parts of the whole Epic, they combine rocky tech with extreme exposure.

Leanne, with her reflexes heavily impaired from fatigue began walking over more and more features here, despite them being well within her usual capabilities. We began to worry that this would cause our ride time to blow out to a point where we had new problems, but with a bit of a rest and a pep talk we were able to continue, and thankfully the trail mellowed out again.

As the trail nears it’s end you get distant views of Melrose to spur you on. We also re-entered reception and were able to check the upcoming terrain regularly on Strava.

On this final section we finally stopped conserving battery and used boost liberally. This was an absolute game-changer making the uphills feel like gentle downhills and powering us across the scree slopes.

We didn’t get to ride the very last descent of the trail as Trailscapes were installing the final features. Instead we were redirected onto Throwing Copper one of the other crowd favourite trails we had hoped to get time to ride.

We finally arrived back at our campsite close to 3pm and immediately began shovelling as much food into our mouths as we could.

Leanne was rewarded for her troubles by becoming the inaugural Remarkable Epic Trail E-Bike Queen of the Mountain.

Jacka Brothers Brewery

Jacka Brothers Brewery is located at the heritage listed premises of Melrose’s original 1877 Brewery. The building pictured above, with the bar on the bottom floor, was once where beer was brewed, starting at the top and going through different processes on each level before being piped across to the basement in the opposite building which is now used as a function room.

The bar is trendy and modern with many local beer, wine and gin offerings, and the owner has partnered with two other businesses to provide dining options on site.

It was a perfect fit for us after a long day's ride in the sun. Everyone enjoyed sampling different drinks as we worked our way through a bowl of nachos and three pizzas over the course of a few board games and chats with other travellers and the owner.

Sightseeing In Melrose

The above video was taken across the road from Jacka Brothers, these cockatoos became louder and louder as the afternoon on and treated us to an amazing show when we went for a closer look

The Brewery Tree seemed to be the number one non-mountain biking attraction in Melrose according to Erica’s research. Upon a closer look we discovered it made the lofty claim of being the 25th largest river red gum in South Australia and Victoria. We didn’t think this was that impressive, especially since there was another that seemed just as big around the corner.

That being said it is impressive for its age, more than 300 years, which is particularly notable since nesting hollows don’t start to form until these trees are well over 100 years old. It also seems to have been something of a cultural icon for generations as a meeting place for community groups and more recently wedding parties.

My Recommendations

If you're passing through the area, or local to SA, Melrose is well worth a visit!

Important Considerations

There are two challenges to making the most of a Melrose visit; the steep terrain and the climate.

A lot of the Melrose trails have an old school cross country feel. Even the most exciting descents are interrupted by climbs, and if you're going to include the epic, the elevation is leagues beyond anything in WA.

So if you are a bike-fit cross country rider you will love this network, but if just shredding down hills is more your speed, you should budget for an E-bike.

When it comes to the climate Melrose experiences a variety of extremes. We met a few of the builders from Trailscapes while riding the epic and they told us that in the last week they had had stop work orders because of both heat and rain!

For our visit the heat was an ever present challenge, but our subsequent adventures on the South Australian coast were much cooler with some light rain, we would have loved to have had it the other way around.

The best case scenario would be to visit Melrose in Autumn or Spring, but whenever you go you'll get the most out of your experience if you have the flexibility to shuffle around your itinerary based on the weather, plan enough time for everything you want to do but don't lock anything in until you get there.

Mountain Biking Routes

If you have lots of time you can compliment a flexible itinerary by building up to the epic trail by following the suggestions below, otherwise just pick a few that appeal to you the most.

Wilowie Forest Trails

This small network described above is an excellent warm up or family friendly location, we rode almost the whole network in about 2 hours. It can be added on to a loop of the Bale Out trail or accessed via the Southern Flinders Rail Trail.

Bartagunyah MTB Trails

Melrose's second satellite network, we didn't make it here, but I would plan half a day here if I visited again. These trails are situated on Bartagunyah Estate, and feature views of the Spencer Gulf, the network is about the same size as Wilowie so you could spend half a day at each and finish with a wine tasting at the cellar door.

For the more adventurous incorporate these trails into the Home Run Loop described below.

Melrose Town Trails

The feature network of the town has numerous trails starting and finishing within the Melrose Caravan and Tourist Park. Enjoy the mix of old and new in this well loved network featuring Dodging Bullets and Throwing Copper, but be prepared to pedal!

If you're staying at the caravan park there is also a handy pump track by the campsites and the dual slalom track Dualling Banjo's on the lowest slopes of the mountain, both great for burning extra energy.

Home Run Loop

One of my favourite sections of the Remarkable Epic Trail was the steep, technical, exposed descents of the Home Run segment. Thanks to Horse Gully Road it is possible to shuttle just this part of the trail, or better yet take the Mawson Trail from Melrose to create a loop that passes by Bartagunyah!

For those with time to spare, or on the fence this is a perfect way to sample the Remarkable Epic Trail without committing to the big climb.

North Face and Bale Out

Another taster option for the Remarkable Epic Trail, this route is a classic enduro. Climb 600 vertical metres to the trail junction then turn right and ride the purpose built descent for over 6km before it feeds into the Wilowie network. Return to Melrose via the Southern Flinders Rail Trail.

This is the trail I was most disappointed to miss, it appears to be one of the longest continuous descents in the town with multiple line choice and amazing views.

The Remarkable Epic Trail

Refer to my breakdown above for more details, but the important thing to know is that this is a gruelling ride. With a massive 1000m climb to begin with and huge portions of the trail exposed to the sun you need to be capable and committed.

Try to pick a cooler day for this and bring both more food and more water than you think you will need. Our ride blew out by several hours and we spent that whole time wishing we had brought lunch.

Places to Eat

Over The Edge - Melrose and Jacka Brothers Brewery are both trendy venues discussed above. The town also features two pubs, if a hearty meal and commercial beer is more your speed.

Alligator Gorge

One other place I would have loved to visit if weather permitted is Alligator Gorge, a 9km bushwalking loop through a canyon, with spectacular displays of wildflowers and cascades in springtime.

Coming Soon

From Melrose we drove to the Barossa Valley for Christmas, and then Leanne and I broke off for our first time alone in two weeks, exploring the South Australian Coast.

Lookout for a write-up on Deep Creek and Second Valley coming soon, and subscribe to never miss an update.

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This post is part of my epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania, also featuring Leanne and cameos from other adventurers.

To start at the beginning click here.

Or to stay up to date subscribe below!

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Caiguna Blowhole

The Nullarbor Plain is a lot of driving with not much to see or do, we made a point of stopping to checkout any interesting land forms we found along the way.

The first such stop was the Caiguna Blowhole, which is part of a much, much larger cave network spreading throughout the Nullarbor. Notable for being the driest Karst (limestone) area in the world, and having prominent ‘breathing’ (due to their small openings) with wind speeds of 72kph having been recorded.

The Caiguna Blowhole is filled with rubble, leaving only a small opening to what lays beyond, but when you crouch down it's easy to feel the movement in the air.

Wear and Tear

As the journey wore on so did our makeshift bike cover. It was also around this time that we realised our fridge was struggling to stay cool again.

State Border

The border village was one of the few places we had stable phone reception on this leg of the journey, so we lost an hour catching up on some urgent life admin, but we still took a moment to appreciate the local ‘big thing’ featuring a spectacular Aussie mashup.

The Great Australian Bite

After you cross the border you are still very remote, the quarantine for South Australia isn’t for quite a while, the next day in our case, instead you get to enjoy some spectacular cliff views in the no man’s land in between.

The light was fading as we rushed between each of these viewpoints, but that made for some spectacular sights.

The only downside being that when we checked into the Nullabor Roadhouse at what we thought was 6:05pm butwas actually 9:05pm and the attendant was trying to close for the day. Needless to say, no pub meal for us that night, and given the time it was straight to bed.

The Next Big Thing!

The next day we reentered civilisation, replaced our vegetables and found some new Archies for me.

Continuing on we passed through Kimba, a town proud of being the halfway point across Australia and featuring The Big Galah. We made galahs of ourselves trying to trying to match it’s pose.

Flinders Rangers

The closer we got to Port Augusta the more the limestone fell away and was replaced by iron ore country resembling the Pilbara. We drove straight through town and onto the mountain pass.

Distractions

Entering the mountains, with Melrose less than an hour away we began to get excited and distractible. The first thing to catch my eye was a mountain bike trail-head. Online information on this trail wasn’t forthcoming, but I later found out it loosely follows the highway down the mountains to the east.

The circumstances where it would work well are few, but eastbound mountain bikers could use this spot to unload there bikes and have some passengers ride down the range instead of drive.

Lookout

A little further along the road we followed a sign for a lookout which gave us sweeping, but glarey views over the Spencer Gulf.

Melrose

We made it to Melrose well into the evening local time where we were met by Alan, Leanne and Erica’s dad, along with my dog-in-law Echo.

It was past 8 by the time we stepped into a local pub and they seemed like they had been closing up. That being said the lady working the bar was very quick to change gears and provide us all with a hearty meal which we enjoyed together gazing up at Mount Remarkable.

Reflections

Looking back over our time crossing the Nullarbor I was left with the feeling that the detours weren’t worth it.

I love Esperance, and could probably spend a whole summer there, or even live there, but trying to make a visit work on a tight schedule just wasn’t worth it. We didn’t get the weather or time to enjoy it properly, and the 3 extra days would have been more valuable further from home.

If you’re a Western Australian heading east keep Esperance for it’s own trip and cross the Nullarbor as quickly as you can safely manage. I also recommend splurging on comfort, 10-15 hour days in the car are much more tolerable if you have a soft bed and hot meal lined up for the end of the day.

Trail Tip

One thing that did work well for the long driving stints was finding an audiobook we could all agree on.

For us that was Daughter of the Deep by Rick Riordan. This is a new book by Leanne’s favourite fantasy author set in a world inspired by 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea.

The themes of ocean and adventure are very relatable for Leanne and myself. Plus Erica and I enjoyed laughing at the inexplicably sexy intonation of the narrator.

Links

Daughter of the Deep - goodreads.com

Next post Monday 2024.03.11

At last we unwrap our bikes and get to experience all the mountain biking that Melrose has to offer. Join myself and Leanne as we warm up at the Willowie Forrest Trails, ride crowd favourites like Dodging Bullets and Casting Copper, then ruin ourselves on the Mount Remarkable Epic Trail.

This post is part of my epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania, also featuring Leanne and cameos from numerous other adventurers.

To start at the beginning click here.

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Recreating the Moment

Leanne and I first visited Ben Island one year prior. We were camping nearby and had seen that it was only one kilometre offshore, a perfect mini adventure.

As we explored the island we were delighted to discover a picturesque rock pool/ infinity pool with low slabs on one side and cliffs on the other.

On this occasion we had only planned for a short paddle, so we had left our snorkels behind and only brought a few muesli bars. As a result we had to keep the outing short and didn’t get a chance to snorkel in the rock pool or scope out the depth for cliff jumping.

We resolved to return one day with snorkels and a packed lunch to spend the whole day lounging in the sun and playing in the rock pool. We’ve been daydreaming about it ever since.

Alexander Bay

We started the day with the short drive down to Alexander Bay (great name), enjoyed breakfast in the picnic area then drove onto the beach.

Esperance’s beaches are famous for their squeaky, firmly packed sand. In the photo above notice how our tyres are still fully inflated and how shallow the tyre tracks still are.

Setting Out

Erica was kind enough to wait with the car and read a book, so Leanne and I were soon underway by ourselves.

Ben Island dominates the horizon above, with a sliver of the mainland visible on the right.

Treacherous Waters

It might not look it in the photo above, but once you enter the channel between Ben Island and the mainland the current and swell are both quite strong. This is one of the reasons that I would advise a lot of caution if you are considering this adventure.

We overcame the challenge by angling into the swell, paddling past the landing point then turning 90 degrees and coasting into the shelter of the island.

There is no easy landing here, you’ve got to jump out between rocks while each wave tries to throw the kayak forward and then pull it out to sea.

Exit Strategy

One of our biggest worries on adventures like this is becoming marooned, so we are always sure to drag the kayak well above the highest point we think waves will come to.

With the boat secured we loaded up for our island adventure, setting off in the direction of the rock pool.

Balancing Rock

We followed the granite slabs clockwise around the island and half way there passed one of our favourite rock features.

In addition to being interesting to look this huge boulder provides some of the only shelter from wind and sun on the island.

The Stone Table

As we continued around the Eastern face of the island we began to more fully appreciate the conditions of the sea below. We passed the stone table, thankfully free of any allegorical lions, and made the final descent.

Rock Pool

We arrived at the rock pool, but could tell there was a lot more water moving in and out than our previous visit.

As tempting as it was to swim anyway after how far we had come to get here, we knew the right call was to back out. The photo below is not even the biggest wave we saw in the pool.

Abandoned Plans

As we made our way back to the kayak the grey clouds mirrored our mood.

Return Journey

On the return journey we allowed the current to push us into the bay, angling the front of the kayak 45 degrees from the flow until we passed the headland. The paddle in was smooth and we breathed a sigh of relief to be back on the mainland.

Silver Lining

We would have loved a day of sunbathing and nature play on Ben Island but wrapping things up before midday meant we were able to cover a good amount of ground. We finished the day back on the main Nullarbor route, even after accounting for an hour of backtracking we had time to set up camp and light a fire in the light.

Reflections

This is a prime example of wanting something to work, and doing it anyway, when it’s just not the right time for it.

Ben Island was off-route, the weather was overcast and the tide/swell was too high, plus we weren’t spending time with Erica. In hindsight we should have looked at the forecast more closely and planned a beginner friendly adventure to do with Erica.

I hope to do this trip properly one day, but I think it’ll need to be when I have enough time to pick a perfect day. Which just means I’m going to have to have an extended stay in Esperance one day… how tough...

In the mean time, I’ll write about our first visit when I’m more caught up on the main story.

Trail Tip

Expanding on the above, it’s clear that this adventure is not one that will succeed without careful planning. For the objective to be worthwhile, and the journey to be safe conditions need to be favourable.

Look for low tide and clear skies, do not attempt if you are not experienced paddling on the ocean.

Links

https://www.visitesperance.com/alexander-bay-campsite

Next post 2023.01.29

Regular post are back! I'm committing to a new blog every Monday, and I won’t entertain bonus posts until I have a good buffer in place!

Join the trio as we cross the Nullarbor Plain, all the way to Melrose, South Australia!

This post is part of my epic summer 2023/2024 road trip adventure, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania, also featuring Leanne and cameos from numerous other adventurers.

To start at the beginning click here.

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Roadblocks

Morning of Day 2 started with a bit of problem solving, our brand new fridge was not working and we needed to fill our water tank.

We dropped into Hopetoun to bin our chicken and find a tap then made our way towards Esperance. As we left the highway to begin the Great Ocean Drive tourist route our progress was halted by 155 train carriages.

Pink Lake?

The first destination of the Great Ocean Drive is Pink Lake famous for it’s lack of pink colour, but this is all conveniently explained on the “Why Isn’t Pink Lake Pink” sign.

For the curious it’s due to changing salinity from salt mining and fresh water drainage.

LOOKOUT!

If you like lookouts you will love this drive. I very quickly lost track of which photos are from where because of how regularly there was somewhere to pull over, all of them providing a new vantage point to view the spectacular coastline!

Closer Look

We chose a few beaches at random to explore more thoroughly, lured in by photogenic stairs and rock pools.

Views for Days!

Everywhere you stop and everywhere you look a new fantastic vista!

Naked Ambition

One of the lookouts was covered in graffiti like this, including lots of arrows to a beach out of sight from the road. It seems there is a local or locals very dedicated to their cause. We decided to leave them to it and moved on.

Twilight Beach

We arrived at Twilight Beach in a brief window of sunshine and made the most of it with a picnic lunch and swim

Recherche Archipelago

Our last stop on the Great Ocean Drive was the rotary club lookout which includes views to Recherche Archipelago, the Archipelago continues well beyond this and we will be visiting one of the islands in our next post.

We also learned that Recherche and Esperance were the names of two of the first ships to survey this coastline.

New Batteries

Arriving in Esperance we were delighted to discover that a there was a Supercheap Auto open, even though it was a Sunday. We suspected our batteries might be the culprit for our failing fridge so we had a check done which identified one unstable and one at 30%. Supercheap did a complimentary install on our front battery but left us with the auxillary to do ourselves.

We set ourselves up in the Coffee Cat carpark and got to work, sadly not accompanied by latte’s as they were closed. One bolt in particular proved to be a challenge but we got the job done in a little over an hour and Supercheap were happy to take our old battery.

In Good Company

We finished the day by setting ourselves up for our next adventures by camping in Condingup and having an easy dinner at the local pub.

While our car spent time with all the other white utes, we also enjoyed time together as a family inside.

Reflections

We opted to leave the surfboards behind this trip due to difficulty storing and unloading them. Having body boards tucked behind the drivers seat instead was perfect for our afternoon dip at Twilight Beach

Trail Tip

Hoodie towels like the one that Leanne is wearing below are a game changer for beach-goers and I’d recommend them to anyone, with one of these you can get changed absolutely anywhere.

Not only does Leanne’s feature a beautiful picture of one of her favourite animals but it’s quick drying too!

Links

https://www.visitesperance.com/experiences/attractions/great-ocean-drive

Next post

I’m not getting a stable enough internet connection to commit to a release schedule right now.

When the story continues I’ll be covering our visit to Ben Island.

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Perth Layover

Leanne and I spent the 12th to 15th of December in Perth with a jam-packed schedule of appointments and social engagements.

It was a hectic runaround, but good to catch up on services not available in Coral Bay. Among other things both our mountain bikes had a refresh, the car got its new wheel nuts and we replaced the suspension “minced” in the Kimberley.

Our final day in Perth was spent at the Outback Splash water park with each generation of the family pressuring their elders to ride more and bigger slides with them.

Last Minute Gift Wrapping

Our final task before we set out was covering up our freshly serviced bikes for the long journey ahead.

We used a fitted sheet as a base layer followed by cling wrap to close all the gaps and and duct tape to hold things in place.

The process took three people, including Leanne sitting on the roof of the car, but the picture below shows it was holding up well after a few hours on the road.

You can also see our new car fridge inside the tray.

Introducing Erica

Leanne's sister Erica accepted our invitation to join us for the drive to Adelaide.

Usually, Erica has her adventures between the pages of a book, but in December of 2018 she joined a tour through the Scottish Highlands and since then she has been learning Chinese in preparation for more travel, but has had her plans derailed by the global pandemic.

Wave Rock

We arrived in Hyden in the heat of the day, so we kept our visit to Wave Rock brief. Giving Erica just enough time to take a few photos before we all hurried back to the air conditioning.

View From Lake Magic

Our token visit to Wave Rock complete it was time for the feature of our Hyden visit, the Lake Magic Salt Pond. We picked up a day pass from the visitors centre and made our way up the resorts long driveway enjoying the views of Wave Rock over the salt flats.

The Salt Pond

The Lake Magic Salt Pond was a unique and wonderful experience. Self-described as more buoyant and more healing than the dead sea. I can vouch for neither, but can say it was the most I’ve ever floated and that it made every tiny cut on my body sting!

With this much buoyancy, and a playful attitude, the natural thing is to see how far down you can swim. Leanne went first and quickly discovered how much this hurt her eyes, but this didn’t stop Erica or myself from giving it a go.

As we drifted around the central island we witnessed new arrivals go through the same experience, along the way Leanne and Erica experimented with how little movement they could use to propel themselves forward.

First Camp

We finished the day at an overnight rest area just south of Ravensthorpe. As we walked Erica through setting up her swag and camp cooking a lot of jokes were made about the excellent 2:1 instructor/participant ratio.

This also marked the beginning of our next round of car difficulties as our brand new fridge was now reading 7 degrees!

Reflections

We had our car serviced in November as well as new tyres, wheel nuts and suspension the week before, but still had car trouble…

You can try to plan ahead and even buy brand new gear, but adventure always comes with surprises and brings out the hidden problems. When it does you’ve just got to stay positive and work through the issues one at a time.

Our fridge saga continued until we left Adelaide, but as you will see, this didn’t stop us from having lots of fun along the way!

Trail Tip

The salt pond really enhances Hyden as a rest stop. Not enough to make you want to spend the night, but it’s a great alternative to trying to do a hike in the hot sun, or even worse visiting the once-great; now-horrifying Wildlife Park.

If you’re one of the many West Australians making the journey from Perth to Esperance in the heat of summer, I’d recommended factoring it in!

Links

https://www.kondinin.wa.gov.au/tourism/attractions/hyden-wave-rock.aspx

Next post:

I’m not getting a stable enough internet connection to commit to a release date. But when the story continues I’ll be covering our visit to the stunning Esperance coast.

To start at the beginning click here.

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Our big adventure had begun, and we had visited two of Jurien Bay's islands already the day before, but there was more left to see.

Given we were now onto our third flat tyre we had no way of leaving town even if we wanted to!

Fortunately it was now a Monday and so after a quick bounce at the caravan park we went to see the local tyre shop.

Pit Stop

The staff at Jurien Bay Tyre & Auto were friendly and professional, it didn't take long to organise a full new set of tyres, and with the workshop only a 5 minute walk from the beach we made a plan to head out on the kayak while the work was being done.

Setting Sail

One of the reasons we were so excited to get back on the water that day was that the wind forecast was outrageously favourable.

First there would be a moderate north-easterly, gently pushing us to the back of Boullanger Island. Then the wind was going to die off, perfect for exploring about. Finally from midday the wind was predicted to become a south-westerly, increasing speed all afternoon and therefore providing an express route home.

Setting out things went exactly as predicted, as soon as we were clear of the shore we unfurled our sail and rode the wind straight to Boullanger Island.

Boullanger Island

This time as we approached the northern headland we had to briefly lower our sail to adjust course. Then we continued sailing through the shallows to the channel between Boullanger and Whitlock Islands.

We had our first break there; snacks, water bottle refills, Leanne had one of her signature rests while I went for a wander and found a crab.

Essex Rocks

For this leg of the journey there was no convenient tailwind, so we packed the sail away and paddled through the gentle cross-breeze as we made our way South.

As we approached the island the resident sea lions came into view, sunning themselves on the eastern beach facing the mainland.

Curious Sea Lions

The sea lions were very interested in our kayak and swum out to investigate us.

Adorable Entourage

Unfortunately in the busyness of the morning logistics we had forgotten our snorkel masks, so we didn't get to go in with the sea lions this time.

However as we left Essex Rocks and drifted on the last wisps of the easterly to Escape Island the sea lions insisted on following us and playing all around and under our kayak.

Escaping the Sun on Escape Island

By this point we were quite hungry and the sun had a bit of a bite to it. We found a small limestone cave to escape the elements and refuel.

Express Wind

Emerging from the cave we found the winds had changed exactly as predicted. The powerful sea breeze was now gusting powerfully back towards the jetty. We paddled clear of the island then set sail, Leanne in the front acting as the mast, and me at the back keeping us steady with rudder strokes.

With the wind had come increased swell and so we had to be alert as the kayak pitched up and down, bridging and punching through the troughs and waves. I was only able to snap the picture below as we passed the calmer waters around Boullanger Island.

When I checked my Strava at the end of the journey I saw our max speed had been 18kph!

Reflections

Logistically this day was a huge success we made a bold plan trusting the wind and it all worked out perfectly!

Equipment-wise it was annoying that we forgot the snorkels, but understandable given everything else going on.

I’d hazard a guess that if we had our car running at 100% we probably wouldn’t have forgotten the masks!

Trail Tip

It’s the 1st principle of Leave No Trace, and it came up a few times here:

• Planning our day around the wind was absolutely a great move that really enhanced our experience, if you have the flexibility to do so I’d recommend it to anyone.

• On the flip side we would have done better if we’d known we couldn’t land on Essex Rocks before getting there and seeing the sign, thus pushing our lunch back by an hour.

Links

https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-10/Jurien-Bay-Marine-Park-visitor-guide.pdf

Next post: Monday 2023.12.25

After taking a week in Perth for maintenance on their car, their bikes and themselves Xander and Leanne head east, now accompanied by new Guest Adventurer; Erica! Their first stop? Wave Rock and Lake Magic Salt Pond in Hyden.

This is the first post covering our many adventures of summer 2023/2024, spanning Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria and Tasmania.

To follow along subscribe below!

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The Adventure Begins

The school camp season in Coral Bay finished on Friday the 8th of December and we were packed and on the road by midday of the 9th.

A series of dust tornadoes kept the drive to Geraldton interesting and we arrived shortly after sunset.

We checked into the backpackers then enjoyed a lively night out at the Old Man & The Sea rooftop bar.

Tyred Morning

The next morning, Saturday the 9th, started off great with a coffee on the Geraldton foreshore but was quickly derailed by a series of flat tyres.

What started as one soft tyre quickly became two and an immovable wheel nut, we had to call RAC to get us back on the road.

Favourite Island

It was lunch time by the time we arrived in Jurien Bay, we stopped in at The Oneh, our favourite local restaurant, then unloaded the kayak at the tourist jetty.

There was a cross breeze on our way over to favourite island which grew in intensity the further we got from the shoreline, but with a little bit of strategic zigzagging we made quick progress.

Limestone Cave

The northern end of the island featured a photogenic limestone cave.

Boullanger Island

From Favourite Island we followed the reef over to Boullanger, theorising it would lessen the swell. We made our way past the headland and landed on the beach facing back to shore.

After taking in the scenery we paddled and walked our kayak over to the southern side of the island to take in the rest of the archipelago.

A check of the distances plus, our dwindling supplies and energy made it clear that this was the natural point for the day to end.

Shortly after making this decision we were rewarded with a sneak peak of things to come, as a sea lion swam past us just beneath the surface.

Return Journey

Paddling back in from Boullanger proved difficult, with a 25kph wind coming directly from our destination. We made it back to the mainland, but soon realised we didn't have the energy to fight the wind further.

I walked the last kilometre or so to the car then picked up Leanne followed by some supplies.

The day ended with a bottle of wine in our beloved two seater camping chair, but also the realisation we now had a third flat tyre!

Reflections

If you're going to be stuck on the side of the road for a while having some shade, snacks and a comfy chair makes it a lot better, so does having a RAC membership.

Even better still address car problems early, perhaps even when it comes at a remote area premium.

Trail Tip

If you're pushed for time visiting the island Favourite is probably the one to drop as it is at the opposite end of the Archipelago to the sea lions at Essex Rocks.

That being said it has a beautiful little beach and on a calm day would provide excellent access for snorkelling the reef.

Next post: Thursday 2023.12.21

Synergy is achieved! Xander and Leanne explore the other Jurien Bay islands, and meet sea lions, while their car gets a full new set of tyres.

Our 28 hour road-trip was behind us and we were brimming with excitement! Tunnel Creek sounded incredible; a gorge that closes up overhead, wading, maybe even swimming required, and possible fresh water crocodiles!

Approach

We left the comfort of the highway behind and navigated the 69km of gravel to Tunnel Creek. We were pleasantly surprised by the quality of the road. Lot’s of twists and turns, some shallow creek crossings, cows, and views all necessitated a slow speed, but a two wheel drive would still be capable of this journey.

We arrived at 10:00 am and were a little disappointed to find three tour buses and a dozen other vehicles already on site, however this didn’t end up posing much of a problem. We crossed paths with one of the tour groups on the path to the entrance, and leapfrogged other travellers throughout, but mostly had our own space in the cave.

Into the Dark

At the entrance we scrambled over a small creek and some boulders realising almost immediately we’d made the wrong choice of footwear. On the riverbed, the trail had become a sandy bank giving way to gravel and then a deep pool disappearing into the dark. We packed our hiking boots into our dry bag, and waded out into the darkness.

In moments it was too deep to stand. We held our torches above the surface in one hand and swum with the other. Bobbing towards a single reflector in the distance, accompanied by the gurgle of nearby running water.

After about 20 metres of swimming we felt sand underfoot and the eerie atmosphere dispersed as we climbed onto dry land.

Further into the cave there was plenty more wading, but we kept our feet on solid ground, and were rewarded for our efforts with bats and beautiful cave formations.

Shared Experiences

In the middle part of the cave another couple caught up to us. I was impressed to see they had made it this far with their toddler in tow. A combination of; a life jacket, piggy backs and the promise of tiny teddies, seemed to be keeping her satisfied. We connected over the shared excitement and confusion of the experience, and when we passed a hole in the ceiling we were able to help each other out with photos.

Return

Despite the lack of markers it’s very simple to know when to turn around. The cave opens up revealing a lush creek offering a chance to warm up, or even swim, in the sun.

Our timing worked out great, we had enough time to warm up and rest before a large group of families arrived. We were able to stay ahead of them for the reverse journey, which we enjoyed just as much as the way there!

Reflections

Tunnel Creek is the ultimate Nature Playground, and we loved seeing it bring out the inner child of all the visitors we passed.

This is exactly the type of immersive adventure I created Xander's Meanders to promote. If you have the chance to go there don't miss out!

Trail Tips

Logistics

• This destination is a simple and worthwhile detour from Great Northern Highway.

• Although our guidebook recommended arriving early to beat the tour groups. I suggest that it would also be a good option to come in the afternoon to get out of the sun, allowing for a jam packed itinerary.

Equipment

• Dress for canyoning; quick-dry active-wear

• Reef Shoes - This trail isn’t long but you’re in and out of water a lot, and there’s plenty of gravel. Reef shoes will offer the most comfort.

Links

https://trailswa.com.au/trails/trail/tunnel-creek-tunnel-creek-np-kimberley

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After four months busy with camps Leanne and I were ready for a break! We loved our our new life in Coral Bay, but it was time for a change of scenery.

With the car packed and alarms set for 4 am we turned in for one last sleep in our own bed.

Setting Out

We had a smooth start to our travels. I woke up first and used some leftover cake to coax Leanne, wrapped in blankets, into the passenger seat of the car.

As we slipped out of the confines of Coral Bay her sleepy demeanour melted away, and we spent the first two hours of the journey excitedly discussing the adventures ahead.

Marathon

As we watched the Pilbara pass by the lively conversation slowly gave way to a routine of driver swaps and podcasts, which carried us through the rest of the daylight hours.

Night had fallen by the time we had reached the Kimberley but we chose to press on to the Nillibubbica Rest Area. Soon thereafter Leanne had to dodge a drunk driver coming down the wrong side of the road. Then, a little rattled, we arrived at our destination.

Rest

It was past 08:00 in the evening when we left the highway, but before 09:00 when we were in bed, having set up, eaten, and packed away again. We spent the whole time congratulating our own efficiency and grateful to be adventuring free of responsibilities.

Arrival

Having completed the last few hours of our journey in the dark, we hadn’t noticed the scenery changing around us. So when we set out again the next morning we were excited to discover ourselves surrounded by trees! Four months in the arid landscape of Coral Bay, and travelling through the entire Pilbara the day before, made this a truly special experience.

We took the first opportunity we could to stop and admire a boab tree. Before leaving the highway behind and heading for Tunnel Creek!

Reflections

It was great only using one day of our leave to cover so much ground, but very exhausting. The experience gave us a real appreciation for the size of Western Australia. We realised we could have flown to just about anywhere in the world in the same time-frame. Someone else would have been doing the driving too!

Trail Tips

This was a crazy amount of driving to do in a little more than a day. A few things that helped were:

• Starting early - we were much more alert diving in the dark at 4am than at 8pm after going all day.

• Swapping drivers often - around every 2 hours.

• Allowing ourselves to buy food and coffees guilt free at every opportunity.

Links

https://rac.com.au/car-motoring/info/long-distance-driving-safety-tips

Next post: Monday 2023.12.11

Find out what all that driving was for, as our Kimberley Adventures really get started! I'll be writing about our visit to Tunnel Creek.

Or for something more adventurous close by, try our epic voyage to The Fin Shipwreck.

Our first stint in Coral Bay was coming to an end, we had been working hard and spending every other moment out and about exploring the local attractions.

By this point we were familiar with all of the Coral Bay moorings, so when a brief window opened in our schedule, we decided to make the most of it and head to our favourite spot!

Refined Kayak Transportation

Our home in Coral Bay is a little under one kilometre from the beach access at Baz’s Park. Over the course of our first few months here we had discovered that it was much more efficient to manhandle the kayak to the beach than load and unload it from the car, But this still presented challenges.

At the start of the year we had purchased a kayak trolley that slots into the scupper holes and takes the weight as you maneuver the kayak from the handle at the front. This was an absolute game changer over short distances, but an incomplete solution for longer stretches, as it quickly became strenuous.

Our first solution was to thread one of our paddles through the handle at the front, enabling both of us to lift with both hands, arms fully extended to lessen the load. This was a little awkward and increased the kayak’s already massive turning circle.

Next I took to wearing my PFD and attaching the kayak to the back of it with a carabiner. This was more efficient than the previous solution, but awkward to set up and placed undue strain on both my back and the life jacket.

I finally cracked the code by swapping out our bow rope for a modified cam strap. One end is tied to the front of the kayak, the other has a carabiner attached, by clipping the carabiner back to the kayak the system becomes an adjustable shoulder strap. This enables a variety of carrying positions, easy egress, and doubles as a quicker way to connect to buoys.

Beautiful Conditions

We covered the two kilometres to the outer reef in no time at all, then with almost an hour to spare before sunset we began a leisurely snorkel.

Low Tide - Great Photography

The extremely low tide, combined with the indirect light provided perfect conditions for the crisp close ups above.

We were even able to stop for a rest on the shallow sandy areas!

Blue-spotted Fantail Ray

Searching close to the surface we were able to find a few of our favourite critters, and photograph them without the water depth obfuscating the pictures.

Fantail rays are often spotted in the shallows around the bay, but also like to hide under coral ledges.

Spotted Sweet Lips

Turtle & Shark

I was able to get up and close to a Green Turtle enjoy it’s dinner, and also saw a much less accommodating White Tip Reef Shark.

Outer Reef

I swam as close as I could to the outer reef, the crashing waves conspicuously absent at the low tide, then rode a current back towards the kayak, weaving my way through the coral bombies that give The Maze it’s name.

Sunset

The sunset from the outer reef was beautiful, but we were still a little early and getting cold!

Keeping Warm

Too cold to stay where we were, we followed the reef to the north, dodging reefs and stopping at Blue Maze.

Then after the sun had set we made a beeline for home, completing the paddle, towing the kayak, and walking in our front door in less than thirty minutes!

Reflections

We left the gear care for the next day, showered and headed back out for some fine dining.

My biggest takeaway from this adventure was how efficiently we were able to get from our house to the outer reef and back.

It inspired me to move away from my shore based Open Water Swimming adventures, and a month later I solo kayaked back to The Maze in less than an hour from home to the reef!

Trail Tip

The Maze is one of the points on the official Coral Bay Kayak Trail, featuring a kayak only mooring adjacent to the one used by tour operators.

This site is unbeatable at low tide, always providing fantastic opportunities for wildlife photography. However it can get quite hairy when there’s lots of water coming over the reef, so check the tides before heading out, and be ready to find an alternative site if necessary.

Links

https://trailswa.com.au/trails/trail/coral-bay-kayak-trail

Coral Bay Kayak Hire

Next post: Thursday 2023.12.07

Join us on our adventures in the Kimberly!

I’ll be looking back at our marathon trip from Coral Bay to Tunnel Creek in only 28 hours!

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By November of 2023 Leanne and I had become well acquainted with the offshore moorings at Coral Bay. When great weather coincided with a slow work week it was time to get back out and enjoy our backyard!

Bills Bay - Serenely Deserted

As Coral Bay is tapering down into the off-season I continue to be surprised by how often this usually bustling beach can be completely even empty when conditions are ideal! We set out at 9am, well past the time the beach usually fills up, with beautiful calm conditions, but barely a person in sight!

Cruising out of Bills Bay we had to avoid coral formations reaching to the surface and chuckled at the altered lettering on the glass bottom boat as we passed by.

Low Tide

The tide was so low that Ayers Rock, the paradise beach marker and Lotti’s coral bombie were all above the surface of the water.

Murky Depths

Lotti’s is one of, if not the deepest mooring in the Coral Bay area, with a depth of almost ten metres. It’s also positioned quite close to a break in the reef, and so with the incoming tide the swim from the kayak to the bombie was a murky disconcerting start. I definitely felt more comfortable once we were alongside the bombie, even though the murkiness continued around the western face.

Wildlife

As we rounded the bombie to the sheltered side the visibility improved and the depth lessened giving us better conditions for wildlife photography.

First we saw two turtles, then a blue spotted fantail ray that hid under the coral, followed by a large parrot fish, nudibranch egg sack, and a clam.

Corals

Scattered around the area were a diverse variety of coral species.

Mysteries of the deep

Returning to the kayak through the deep water I spotted a coral with an interesting pattern and bright colour. The coral also had a hole in it and diving down for a closer look provided a glimpse at it’s internal structure.

Elusive Creatures

Between Lotti’s and Cowtails we had two wildlife encounters that evaded the camera; a turtle taking breaths on the outer reef and a lemon shark next to the Cowtails mooring. The lemon shark sped away as we arrived, but swum past us again once we were in the water, unfortunately the camera was turned off then too.

Cowtails Snorkel

The area surrounding the Cowtails mooring is well within the damaged part of the reef. Almost all the coral here is dead and covered in algae, and so searching around for pockets of colour was the name of the game.

The third photo shows the tail of a juvenile spotted sweet lips.

In the centre we have a Moorish Idol aka Gil from Finding Nemo.

The last photo was taken shortly after we sighted the lemon shark, when all the parrot fish quickly started swimming in the opposite direction.

Return

With a favourable wind it took no time at all to paddle back to shore from Cowtails. We finished the morning with a swim and lunch on the beach before returning home for a nap.

Reflections

We visited these moorings earlier in the year. Back then Lotti’s was packed with over a dozen spotted sweet lips, by far the most we’ve seen in one place! I don’t know if this is seasonal, but I think I’ll try to make my next visit at a similar time, just in case.

I’ll also be giving Cowtails a miss for the time being. The reef has a lot of recovering to do there, and I suspect we would have seen a lot more by dropping anchor on the outer reef (in a sandy area) where we could see splashes of colour through the surface of the water.

Trail Tip

Linen clothing, such as the cover up dress Leanne is wearing in some of these photos, are great, cooling beachwear. However it’s good to remember that they are not UPF rated like high-end outdoor clothing, and you need to sunscreen accordingly.

Links

https://trailswa.com.au/trails/trail/coral-bay-kayak-trail

Next post: Monday 2023.12.04

I look back on one of my favourite kayak outings of the year; snorkelling and watching the sunset at the Maze.

What do you do when you leave your paddles in a safe spot, but two hours from home? Plan another day-trip, to one of your favourite beaches!

Prologue - Our First Visit

We first visited South Lefroy on 2023.08.27 while roaming Ningaloo Station in search of adventure.

Following a recommendation from a camp host we drifted from site 1-12. The whole snorkel was great, with a mature green turtle, a nudibranch, an eel and heaps of our favourite blue ‘playdough’ starfish.

But what really took the experience to the next level was the biggest anemone we've ever seen! It had completely taken over a two metre coral bombie and was supporting a thriving population of critters.

Return

It took two weeks from our visit to the Fin for our work schedule and some bush fires to clear up.

When the day came we left Coral Bay at mid-morning, an hour later we saw the impacts of the bushfires up close. Notice how Carbadia-Ningaloo Road has been used as a firebreak.

Chasing Turtles

While collecting our paddles we paused to gaze at the Frazer Island sandbar on the horizon and scan the beach for turtles.

This proved fruitful, with the distinct silhouette of a mature green turtle nestled beside some coral.

We quickly donned our snorkels and entered the water. But the turtle had no interest in being anywhere near us and took off at speed, only allowing me to take the blurry picture above, (bottom left).

South Lefroy Snorkel

After this, we made our way to South Lefroy Campground and followed the signs for site 12. We had a quick lunch under the awning then wandered up to site 1 for the drift snorkel.

Shark

The snorkelling was beautiful, but had been lacking in ‘feature’ animals, so we were thrilled when we encountered a White Tipped Reef Shark on our way back into shore.

Anemone City

We finished the snorkel with the massive anemone we had come back for, if you want to find it for yourself look around in front of site 12.

With the paddles retrieved, swim complete, and all out of snacks it was time to head home for the day!

Reflections

When I first realised we had left our paddles behind there was a part of me that thought about just heading straight back to fetch them asap.

I’m glad we made a day out of it instead. This was a lot more fun than a four hour errand when I’m already tired!

Trail Tip

The photo above shows the stretch of beach featuring sites 1-12 at South Lefroy Campsite. We are parked down by site 12 and there is only site 2 in use.

Many Western Australians stop thinking about visiting Ningaloo as Perth starts to warm up, but we had stunning conditions for this adventure and being able to camp at South Lefroy when it’s this quiet would be a real treat.

You could even camp right in front of the anemone city!

Links

https://exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/site/south-lefroy-bay-campground

Next post: Thursday 2023.11.30

Xander and Leanne enjoy some kayak snorkelling back home in Coral Bay. Low tide and low winds provide fantastic conditions for a visit to Lotti’s and Cowtails moorings.

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Leanne and I first heard about the Fin Shipwreck in September of 2023, six months after establishing ourselves in Coral Bay. From that moment we knew we had to check it out. After two months the weather, our work schedule, and our health gave us the opportunity we had been waiting for!

Early Start

We arose with the sun, giving ourselves time for the 2 hour drive to our beach access in time for the low winds.

With the car already loaded I made a quick coffee run to the Coral Bay Bakery and was rewarded with the beautiful sunrise above.

Nesting Turtles

Arriving at the beach we were greeted by fantastic calm conditions, and immediately distracted by two nesting turtles!

One turtle was already swimming away, while the other lay resting in the tiny breaking waves. We kept our distance taking photos, not wanting the tired mother to reenter the water prematurely.

If turtles don’t rest long enough after laying their eggs they are at greater risk from tiger shark ambush, or drowning under the weight of over-eager males.

Setting Out

We organised the kayak at the top of the dunes, continuing to give the turtle a wide berth as we entered the water.

If you zoom in on the horizon behind our kayak above, you can see the sandbar which is all that remains of Frazer Island since it washed away in the 1960’s.

The Sandbar

Without the elevation from the dunes the sandbar slipped out of sight, but we set out in the right direction and soon after it came back into view.

The 6km to the island were uneventful, but by the time we arrived we were hungry and ready to stretch our legs.

Our own personal island

We thought it was great having somewhere to relax in comfort this far out to sea. This was a fantastic upgrade from having to eat and get changed on the kayak while visiting different parts of the Ningaloo Reef throughout the year.

From here we could see the wreck, as well as another much smaller sandbar about one third of the way there, so after a good rest we made this our next destination.

Almost there

We used the smaller sandbar as a staging ground to change into our wet suits before paddling the final kilometre to the wreck.

Arrival

We passed the remains of the Frazer Island lighthouse first then moored up at the wreck.

Snorkelling

We began by exploring around the front of the wreck, where we found an anemone, and then towards the outer reef.

Sea Stars

There were loads of our favourite blue sea stars, and a starfish with only 4 limbs.

Corals

Snorkelling towards the reef we were treated to a beautiful variety of corals, as well as dozens of unicorn fish too fast to photograph.

Wildlife

The wildlife were out in force too, including a rare Skate sighting and Harlequin Filefish (a personal favourite of ours).

Lighthouse Foundations

After a quick drink break at the kayak we swum to the lighthouse, starting our exploration with the foundations.

Lighthouse Frame

The lighthouse frame was full of life, with enough water depth for us to swim through for a closer look.

Burst of Yellow

Just past the top of the fallen lighthouse I swam over a large field of healthy yellow staghorn coral.

Final Finds

We finished with a final lap of the shipwreck and the biodiversity continued, including a pile of empty shells left by a well fed octopus (centre).

Lunch

By the time we began our return journey the tide had swallowed the smaller sandbar. We paddled directly from the shipwreck to the larger island; once again taking the time to eat, change, and relax in comfort.

After a good break, we slid the kayak over the island and were on our way.

Increasing Winds

For the final leg we were well outside our calm window. The wind was blowing hard from the South West, threatening to push us several kilometres north of our car.

Kayaking in a zigzag pattern kept us on course and saved our energy. With two kilometres remaining, we decided to try out our kayak sail.

This proved to be quite effective, and we might have been able to make a more direct line if we’d unfurled it earlier. We found that by using the paddle as an extension we could get a larger angle and travel up to about 30 degrees from the wind direction consistently.

In the end it didn’t take long to make landfall but we had to backtrack south a kilometre to reach our car.

Reflections

We realised afterwards that this Shipwreck was exactly 100 years old during our visit. We also know that the lighthouse on Frazer Island collapsed into the sea 60 years ago. Consequently both provide a great frame of reference for how long coral takes to grow, which is an interesting lens to view all the photos through.

Trail Tips

This expedition is for experienced paddlers only, and weather is an important consideration. Obviously low winds are ideal for paddling and snorkelling, but if you time your visit right you could ride an easterly out, snorkel during low winds, and return to the mainland on the sea breeze.

The sandbar remains of Frazer Island make for a fantastic staging ground and I would highly recommend doing as we did; using it for morning tea, lunch, and changing either side of the swim.

It might also be possible to access the coast from other points in the surrounding area to make the most of your conditions.

Links

https://www.divingwawrecks.com/fin

Next post: Monday 2023.11.27

Xander and Leanne day-trip back to their launch site to retrieve their forgotten paddles and enjoy a Snorkel at South Lefroy Beach.